Reviews of Kasanka (From 7 Acclaimed Safari Experts)

Expert

Nana Luckham –

UK

Visited: Multiple times

Nana is a travel writer and author of multiple guidebooks, including the Lonely Planet guides to Africa, Zambia & Malawi and South Africa.

1 person found this review helpful.

Wilderness Without the Crowds

Overall rating

3/5

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Tiny Kasanka is one of Zambia’s least known parks; there are just two lodges and four basic campsites here and it receives few tourists. First things first, this isn’t the place to come for big game – you won’t find lion here. What makes it special is the chance to experience the wilderness atmosphere with hardy another human being in sight.

Kasanka is famous for its swampland, and in particular for the situtanga, a shy, semi-aquatic antelope. Gliding down the forest-shrouded Luwombwa River in a canoe, you’ll see crocodile, hippo, otters and rare blue monkeys. If you’re lucky, you may spot one of the small number of elephant.

Birders love it here. There are more than 400 species, including a diverse and visible range of water birds, and in November and December five million fruit bats visit the area, blanketing the skies. It’s the largest such gathering anywhere in the world.

When I last went to Kasanka we were the only visitors in the park and had the rustic Pontoon campsite, overlooking hippo and crocodile filled lake, completely to ourselves. A highlight was getting up early in the morning to visit Fibwe Hide. A 20 metre climb up a ladder took me to a wooden platform at the top of an old mahogany tree from where I watched the endless swamps spread out below me come slowly to life with the dawn.

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Expert

Christopher Clark –

UK

Visited: October

Christopher is a British travel writer and has contributed to various Fodor's guidebooks and a range of travel magazines.

1 person found this review helpful.

Home of the world’s biggest mammal migration

Overall rating

3/5

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Kasanka is one of the smallest parks in Zambia and if you’re in search of big game you are in the wrong place. While some staff at reception might try to tell you otherwise, my experience tells me you almost certainly won’t see any of the Big 5 here. You will, however, see some hippos, crocodiles and a few interesting antelope species, including the very rare and notoriously shy semi-aquatic situtunga.

The birdlife is more impressive, with more than 400 species found in the park. And it’s a pretty and tranquil park too, punctuated by swamplands, lagoons, rivers and dense forests. There are just 2 lodges in the park, and 3 basic but picturesque campsites, so you certainly won’t see a lot of traffic about the place.

But Kasanka’s primary draw card is the astonishing annual fruit bat migration that occurs roughly between late October and December. Somewhere between 5 and 10 million bats visit occupy a tiny 10 hectare area of the park and at sunrise and sunset you can watch them covering the skyline from one of the park’s tree hides. This is a truly strange and wonderful experience.

I visited the park in peak bat season and even then we shared the tree hide with just one other couple and had the campsite entirely to ourselves.

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Expert

Lizzie Williams –

ZA

Visited: October

Lizzie is a reputed guidebook writer and author of the Footprint guides to South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe.

1 person found this review helpful.

Off the beaten track park famous for sitatunga and the astonishing bat migration

Overall rating

3/5

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This remote park won’t appeal for safari-goers expecting to see loads of plains game, but will certainly tick boxes for those seeking unusual species, good birding, and peaceful undisturbed bush. I really enjoyed a two-night stay here at rustic Wasa Lodge, where there were only another couple of guests and the friendly staff from the Kasanka Trust. Dinner was taken on the deck with views over the reed beds in a mosaic of watery channels, which quite delightfully proved to be great for spotting fish eagles, hippo, puku and sitatunga; the latter being a curious semi-aquatic antelope with a hunched back and splayed hooves, which I’ve rarely seen in other parks simply because of their normal shyness. Kasanka is also famous for its straw-coloured fruit bat migration – considered one of Africa’s largest mammal migrations. The density of millions is at its highest in November and December, but on my visit in early October I saw many hundreds of thousands starting to gather. Our guide led us up a rickety step ladder to a hide in the tree canopy, from where it was a marvellous sight watching these chirping creatures sweeping from the branches and across the vast orange sky at sunset.

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Expert

Philip Briggs –

ZA

Visited: Winter

Philip is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.

2 people found this review helpful.

The world’s biggest mammal migration

Overall rating

3/5

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Bush Vibe:

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Kasanka is unique in several respects. The only national park in Zambia under private management (an NGO called the Kasanka Trust), it is also the only one anywhere in Africa, if not the entire world, where the main attraction is bats.

The migration of up to 12 million straw-colored fruit bats to a small patch of forest in Kasanka is a seasonal affair dictated by local rainfall patterns. The first wave of arrivals usually takes place in early October, with numbers peaking over November, before the bats dissipate elsewhere towards the end of December.

We timed our visit for late October, by which time it was estimated that around 5 million bats were already in the park. We visited three of the different aerial-viewing platforms that have been erected close to the bat forest, and were privileged to watch countless thousands of these hefty flying mammals (wingspan 75cm) stream out of the canopy at dusk, then return again at dawn. It’s a truly mesmerizing and mind-boggling experience, one punctuated by occasional bouts of raptorial action as various eagles swoop down to catch a bat in flight.

Kasanka is the only place in southern Africa where you can be almost certain of seeing the sitatunga, a semi-aquatic antelope associated with swamp interiors. From a strategically located viewing platform overlooking a swampy stretch of the Kasanka River, we saw at least a dozen sitatungas, including a couple of males, which resemble a larger, shaggier and longer-horned version of the widespread bushbuck.

When it comes to more conventional game viewing, Kasanka supports small populations of leopard, elephant, buffalo and sable antelope, but none of them are easily seen. By contrast, it's an exceptional bird-watching destination. Highlights included my only ever glimpse of the striking Anchieta’s tchagra in the swamp bordering the Kasanka River, as well as lesser jacana on the lake in front of the main lodge, and miombo woodland specials such as Arnot’s chat, pale-billed hornbill and racket-tailed roller.

Overall, Kasanka is a rather specialized park, one that's most likely to appeal to repeat safari-goers and bird-watchers looking for something different, except over mid-October to mid-December, when the phenomenal bat migration is present.