Peace, Beauty, and Drama in the Bush, Without Crowds
For the serious wildlife observer, who also doesn't mind some creature comforts, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is ideal. Lewa is one of the best examples of ecotourism benefitting the local economy while preserving habitat and wildlife that would otherwise disappear.
I accompanied my then 84-year-old mother on this trip. We were already long-time Africa hands, and this trip was designed to be easy and relaxed, in recognition of my mother's needs, but nevertheless a full experience of the Africa we loved. The staff couldn't have been more attentive or helpful, and our guide, Peter Kiyaa, was knowledgeable, personable, and responsive to the way we wanted to experience the bush -- not rushing around too much, but extended, quiet observation.
The accomodations were delightful--we were in a well-appointed tented suite, a short walk from the lodge/dining building. The lodge is on a ridge with a spectacular view over the surrounding landscape of rolling hills and valleys to the west, all the way to Mt. Kenya to the south. As it happened, there were few other guests during most of our two-week stay, and we had the undivided attention of staff, which allowed us to get to know each other well, and develop friendships that continued long after the trip was over. The food was excellent, a highlight being breakfast on the veranda (with the birds stealing most of the butter, lol). Being a cook myself, I also enjoyed getting to know the kitchen staff.
The wildlife viewing is excellent, with frequent fine views of elephants, rhinos, giraffe, lions, antelope, warthogs, etc., and even eventually an extraordinary night-game-run view of a courting leopard pair. Birding was also extremely varied and satisfying -- all the classic african bush birds, plus special experiences like the raptor and crowned crane migrations (huge numbers) occurring during our visit (January). The rocky outcroppings and cliffs of Hankin's Gorge provided scenic and very entertaining views of rock hyraxes and the unusual stone partridge, which gave us a remarkable sunset chorus. On a night game run, we had memorable encounters with an owl and a strangely hypnotized thick-knee (stone-curlew).
The landscape is everything one could hope for, beautiful acacias, lush grasslands, interesting geographical features, and a wetland area. Gorgeous rainbows appeared after one brief storm. For photographers, the opportunities are endless. The golden hour is glorious!
Our game runs were undisturbed by others, and the ability to observe the natural behavior of the animals and birds for extended periods was priceless. Although this may have been just a stroke of luck for us, I suspect that Lewa manages its tourist capacity very responsibly and maintains a quality experience for everyone.
Definitely a new favorite destination in Africa, and admirable organization deserving of strong support!