Katonga Wildlife Reserve

Perfect - if you’re a birder who likes roughing it

To be honest, there is little in Katonga Wildlife Reserve that you won't see elsewhere. However, if you’re looking for a wilderness experience that’s not too far off the main safari circuit, Katonga comes up trumps. You’re very likely to have the whole area to yourself.

Broadly similar to Lake Mburo National Park, Uganda Wildlife Authority has big ambitions for restitution and plans to upgrade Katonga to a National Park. New trails are being cut, cattle have been evicted from the reserve and zebra, topi and impala have been reintroduced. The wildlife was unfazed by our presence, even up close, as we counted birds for a census (and dodged hippos) along the swamp edge. Sitatunga are also resident. Katonga is great for African Hoopoe, a variety of water birds and civet cats. Elephants are seen seasonally on one side of the reserve.

The lack of facilities mean that this oft-overlooked savannah is ideal if you’re up for roughing it but I’ve loved our low-key stays here: rangers brought us jerrycans of water for cold bucket showers and we ate local food at the nearby trading centre. The outdated Uganda Wildlife Authority dorms are basic in the extreme. Next time I’ll take my camping gear.