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Timing is everything when it comes to desert plants. Rainfall here is rare and unpredictable, and most species lie dormant for much of the year. The best chance to see the flora at its finest is in August and September, when winter rains usually trigger a short-lived burst of flowering across the region. Unlike the dense, colourful daisy fields associated with Namaqualand, the |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld reveals its beauty in miniature. Tiny succulents and delicate blooms appear between stones and on rocky ledges – often missed unless you stop and look closely.
Even outside
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the flowering season, the park remains compelling. Wildlife densities are low and large mammals are seldom seen, but the landscapes are unforgettable. From the South African side, dramatic mountain ranges, steep passes and broad gravel plains dominate the scenery, giving the Richtersveld its reputation for stark, untamed beauty.Across the border in Namibia, the |Ai-|Ais section is equally dramatic, though different in character. Here, the towering Fish River Canyon and the famous hot springs create a rugged but more accessible environment. Visitors can relax at the |Ai-|Ais resort or explore the canyon’s edge.
A 4x4 is recommended throughout the transfrontier park, but I managed fine with a high-clearance SUV.
Land of the mutant plants
The most magnificently isolated of South Africa’s national parks lies on the remote Namibian border formed by the Orange River. It is by no means a conventional safari destination, and is accessible by 4x4 only, and then only after a two day drive from Johannesburg or Cape Town. The main attraction of the region is its ragged scenery and unique vegetation, supporting as it doe some of the most peculiar of the 3,000 plant species endemic to the Karo biome. These include the succulent quiver tree and bulbous halfmensboom, whose name – literally half-human tree – refers to a traditional belief that it is half-plant and half-human. Typical dry-country antelope such as gemsbok, springbok and klipspringer are likely to be seen, and the area supports a number of birds endemic to the arid west of South Africa and Namibia, but it must be emphasised that the park’s remoteness and wilderness feel are its primary attractions, not the wildlife.