Harriet is a zoologist with more than 20 years’ experience. She has the privilege of working with the world’s top wildlife photographers and photo-guides.
More Than Just a Lake
Malawi is one of Africa’s poorest and most densely populated countries but, though it might sound like a cliché, it really does have some of the friendliest people. The country is dominated by the eponymous lake, and there are lots of associated lake-based activities – with beach resorts, snorkelling, kayaking and island-hopping trips.
But there is much more to Malawi than just the Lake. In the south are great hiking options on the peaks of Mt Mulanje and the Zomba Plateau. There is also good hiking on the Nyika Plateau in the western highlands, with its rolling grasslands, eland and roan antelope, and more than 200 orchid species.
Malawi is a rewarding and varied birding destination, with localised specials including the green-headed oriole, brown-breasted barbet and white-winged apalis. Until recently Malawi was dismissed as a safari destination. However, this has changed in recent years with the inspirational NGO African Parks having assumed management of three key parks and reserves. African Parks took over the management of Majete Wildlife Reserve in 2003, since when it has reintroduced all the Big Five. More recently, it has eliminated poaching and illegal fishing in the beautiful Liwonde National Park. On one afternoon’s boat trip at Liwonde I saw elephants, hippos, Pel’s fishing owl….and African skimmers. Most recently African Parks have translocated 500 elephants from Liwonde to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve – Malawi’s oldest conservation area, and one of its largest. The future is looking bright for Malawi’s parks and reserves.
James is a travel writer and author of many Lonely Planet guides, including senior author of the guide to South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland.
Emerging Safari Destination
Often overshadowed by its wildlife-packed neighbouring countries, tiny Malawi is one of Africa’s most exciting up-and-coming safari destinations, largely thanks to the conservation work of NGO African Parks in Liwonde National Park and Majete and Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserves. Adding to the appeal of Lake Malawi’s laidback beach towns, iridescent cichlids and desert islands, Majete and Liwonde now offer the Big Five, while the stunning Nyika National Park is known for its leopard. Liwonde is also one of Africa’s best spots for river-based wildlife watching.
Conservation success stories have included lion, cheetah and black rhino translocations from South Africa to both Majete and Liwonde. In 2016 and 2017, African Parks broke conservation records with the translocation of no fewer than 520 elephants and 1400 game animals from overpopulated Majete and Liwonde to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve. Britain’s Prince Harry took part in the historic translocation; the rugged royal, who served as President of African Parks from 2017 to 2023, spent three weeks carrying out tasks such as anaesthetising and affixing radio collars.
Malawi is really buzzing with this celebrity involvement, and with luxurious new wildlife lodges adding to the existing choice, it has duly featured in several recent ‘top places to visit’ lists compiled by everyone from Rough Guides to Vogue. It’s great news for one of the world’s poorest countries, where tourism contributes over 7% of GDP. With all that said, Malawi remains an emerging safari destination, where exploring the African bush in uncrowded parks, staffed by enthusiastic and welcoming locals, is as much a part of the experience as animal sightings. The bird watching is excellent in the likes of Nyika and Liwonde, while the latter’s lodges offer the novelty of boat safaris.
