Semuliki National Park

Expert Reviews (2)

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Expert

Charlotte Beauvoisin –

Visited: February

Charlotte lives in Uganda and is a writer, blogger, volunteer and promoter of birding, conservation and responsible tourism. She writes for Fodor’s, Horizon Guides and Bradt, and runs an award-winning blog.

Central African Birds and Steamy Hot Springs

Overall rating

1/5

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Bush Vibe:

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Birding:

Semuliki is where the Democratic Republic of Congo’s Ituri Forest stretches into Uganda, making it one of Africa’s richest forest birding areas, home to Central African species you won’t see anywhere else in Uganda. I couldn’t wait to finally visit but forest birding is notoriously difficult. Despite being in the forest with local experts who knew the bird calls, I saw few of the mouthwatering list that my colleagues have: African piculet, grey-throated barbet, yellow-throated nicator, leaf-love, Nkulengu rail and an incredible 10 species of hornbill. (Perhaps I should have spent more time looking and less time writing notes about the 35 ‘Semuliki specials’ that the park is famous for.)

Set in the Albertine Rift, Semuliki is at an altitude of 670m, one of the lowest – and frequently hottest – points in Uganda. The area’s remoteness, disconnected from the main tourist loop and bordering the DRC, means it’s quite undeveloped. Tourism infrastructure is scant here so you’re usually best to come with your own expert bird guide (not to mention a packed lunch). Nonetheless, the jaw-dropping Rift Valley scenery along the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains makes the winding drive more than worthwhile.

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Expert

Philip Briggs –

Visited: Multiple times

Philip is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.

An Alluring but Frustrating Bird-watching Destination

Overall rating

3/5

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On paper, you could make a strong case for Semuliki National Park being the single most alluring bird-watching destination anywhere in Uganda. The statistics are astonishing. A total of 435 bird species have been recorded here, a checklist that includes 35 Congo-Guinea biome specials (including half a dozen different hornbills) known from nowhere else in East Africa. The reason for this avian abundance and wealth of regional rarities is that Semuliki is essentially an extension of the lowland jungle that blankets the Congo Basin, and as such it has a very different species composition to other East African forests.

In practice, Semuliki NP’s merits are a little more complicated. For one, the park lies off the main safari circuit and currently has absolutely no accommodation (though it can be visited as a day trip from Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve or the town of Fort Portal). The surrounding border area has been prone to occasional outbursts of violence in recent years, which is an obstacle to the development of proper tourist facilities. Furthermore, while birding is potentially exceptional, many of the key Congo-Guinea species are quite difficult to see on a casual visit. So, with there being so much avian variety elsewhere in Uganda, the actual case for diverting to Semuliki NP, even on a dedicated bird-watching tour, is weaker than it sounds on paper, at least within the duration of a normal holiday.

Having said all that, I’ve visited Semuliki NP on at least five previous occasions, and always enjoyed it. The descent from Fort Portal, along the northern contours of the Rwenzori Mountains, is one of the most scenic drives anywhere in Uganda. Once in the park, the jungle-lined hot springs at Sempaya are both pretty and impressive, and you're almost certain to see a few interesting birds and possibly some monkeys in the area. Still, as a birding destination, unless you do an overnight hike on the Kirumia River Trail with a knowledgeable local guide, Semuliki NP frustrates as much as it rewards.

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