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The real highlight of Camdeboo, however, is the Valley of Desolation, located in a separate section of the park. This dramatic geological wonder is famous for its towering dolerite columns and jagged rock formations, which rise sharply from the plains below. Several viewpoints along short walking trails provide stunning perspectives of the valley, and the scenery is at its most striking during early morning or late afternoon light. On my first visit at
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sunrise, I had the valley almost entirely to myself, experiencing a profound sense of solitude. By contrast, sunset at the main viewpoint draws the crowds, with nearly every tourist in Graaff-Reinet gathering to watch the golden light illuminate the cliffs. For a quieter experience, it’s worth venturing to the more remote viewpoints, where the beauty and drama of the valley can be appreciated in peace.
Rock formations and Karoo views
Make no mistake: Camdeboo is more of a nature park than a wildlife-watching destination. It does have a wildlife section, with animals including buffalo, rare Cape mountain zebra and several antelope species. But the main reasons to visit this 195 sq km park, which surrounds the historic Karoo town of Graaff-Reinet, are the stunning landscape and hiking trails. Drive up the Valley of Desolation at sunset for sweeping views of the Karoo plains, framed by the craggy shapes of dolerite pillars. Just don't brave it in a lightning storm; the clouds add drama to the scene, but we had to make a sharp exit when my wife's hair stood on end. A recent addition is the Giant Flag (www.giantflag.co.za), a South African flag comprising 2.5 million cacti and succulents and covering an area the size of 66 soccer fields.
Escape to the beauty of the Karoo
The Karoo accounts for about one-third of South Africa’s landmass and was once teeming with herds of wild animals. These days, however, the vast majority of this 4000 square kilometre–sized ecosystem has been converted into endless vistas of sheep farms and fences.
If you want to have an inkling of what the Karoo used to be like before it was settled by Europeans, a visit to the Camdeboo National Park in the Eastern Cape is a must. There are small herds of mountain zebra, wildebeest, and springbok, as well as gemsbok, buffalo, dassies, and jackals. But you don’t visit Camdeboo just for its wildlife. I love coming here because the scenery is beautiful, and the numerous hiking trails can take you to places where you can feel a million miles away from everything and everyone.
The impressive and imposing dolerite towers of the Valley of Desolation make for an amazing backdrop to a beautiful sunset or sunrise. So, pack a picnic, bring a few cold drinks, and enjoy the sound of silence surrounded by endless views of the arid and empty Karoo.
Desolate Karoo landscapes
Formerly the Karoo Nature Reserve, this small park, which all but encloses the historic town of Graaff-Reinet, is mainly of interest for its stunning scenery. The undoubted highlight is the Valley of Desolation, a formation of eroded dolerite columns that rise 120m/393ft from the valley floor. Wildlife included the spectacular Verreaux’s eagle, families of sunbathing rock hyrax and the strikingly colored Cape crag lizard. A hide overlooks Nqweba Dam, which is a good spot for seeking water-associated birds as well as bird species native to the semi-arid Karoo ecosystem. In my view, the 20km/12mi network of roads through the main fenced-off wildlife-viewing enclosure bordering the dam rates as an interesting diversion rather than a must-do. It does host some endemic large mammals though, including Cape mountain zebra, black wildebeest, springbok, gemsbok, grey rhebok and blesbok, along with buffalo and various small carnivores.
Sunsets and scenery
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ranging from the 45-minute Crag Lizard Trail to the 14km Eerstefontein Day Walk. No matter which one you choose, my recommendation is that you time your walk so you can end with sundowners and sunset overlooking the Valley of Desolation. If this doesn’t re-energise your spirits, nothing will!The aptly-named Valley of Desolation with amazing views of the Karoo landscape
Camdeboo has typical Karoo landscape of bizarre rock formations and peculiar desert flora. The Valley of Desolation with its famous sheer dolerite pillars is undoubtedly the highlight. From the car park at the top, a 45-minute walk took us to the very summit; the hike wasn’t too challenging thanks to the signposts with lizard logos and the path inlaid with steps. The views were just breathtaking and the plains of the Great Karoo went on endlessly to every horizon. We saw black eagles soaring over the cliffs, which no doubt had their ‘eagle-eyes’ trained on the numerous rock hyrax (dassies) that darted around. On our drive back down we saw mountain zebra, springbok, and a solitary Cape buffalo, but it’s not a particularly great game-watching destination. However it’s ideal for experiencing the extraordinary geology of the Karoo.