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The Free State’s only national park, Golden Gate is renowned more for its scenic beauty than its wildlife. That said, you can still spy eland, zebra and black wildebeest roaming around the hillside. The real attraction is the spectacular wind sculpted sandstone bastions, which glow against the vast turquoise sky and subtly change hues as the sun sets. Twitchers should also keep an eye out for the rare bearded vulture – which I was lucky enough to see on my last visit – and the equally rare bald ibis, which breeds on the ledges in the sandstone cliffs. With a number of hikes on offer from short hour-long rambles to the challenging half-day Wodehouse Kop walk as well as fossil tours and scenic drives, this park will appeal to anyone looking for a peaceful weekend getaway.
Golden Gate’s Glowing Giants
Although wildlife is present, Golden Gate is primarily a hiker’s park. A generous network of well-maintained day trails caters to all fitness levels, from short ambles to viewpoints to longer circuits that lead into quiet valleys and along grassy ridges. For those seeking a deeper immersion, the two-day Rhebok Trail is an excellent option, traversing some of the park’s most remote and dramatic terrain.
The park offers two small game-drive loops, easily completed in a morning or afternoon. Sightings can be surprisingly rewarding: herds of rare black wildebeest and blesbok often graze on the open plains, while plains zebra wander
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across rolling hills. If you’re lucky, you may spot the delicate oribi, usually moving in shy pairs. Black-backed jackals are common too, though they often melt into the tall grass before you can raise a camera.Accommodation is available within the park, but I tend to base myself in nearby Clarens. This charming village has a welcoming mix of B&Bs, cosy restaurants and interesting art galleries.
Golden Gate is appealing year-round, though the dry winter months can feel stark. Ultimately, the park’s magic lies in its landscapes, which are best appreciated in the lush summer months.
Green grasslands against a backdrop of golden rocks
Golden Gate is named for its dramatic towering sandstone buttresses that glow in warm orange and yellow hues in the sunlight. These shelter some richly-grassed plains in the bottom of the valley. You’re unlikely to see many animals from the main road (the R712) that neatly bisects the park, but on the looping and higher drives, I’ve seen a few black wildebeest, zebra and springbok. Hikers may also encounter mountain reedbuck or eland and perhaps the shy bald ibis and bearded vulture at the top of the escarpment. I’ve been here when it snows, when an already beautiful landscape transforms into a black-and-white picture-postcard view, (though a heated chalet or hotel room is mandatory at this time). The park isn’t worth a special effort to get to – it’s small and not very time-consuming – but the drive through is quite lovely.
A sunset spectacular
Golden Gate is not a place you come for large game viewing. None of the Big Five inhabits this mountainous park, although you can expect encounters with wildebeest, zebra and the largest antelope, the eland. Come instead for spectacular sunsets as the day's last rays hit the sandstone rock formations, turning them varying shades of orange, red and gold. Come armed with a picnic and meander off the main paved roads to find empty lookout points over the mountains, cliffs and rivers. It's also a hiker's haven, with walks ranging from half an hour to a couple of days, although for me it is simply a spot to fill your camera's memory card with glowing images at dusk.
The foothills of the mighty Drakensberg
Having said that, there’s still plenty of plains game around, including zebra, wildebeest and eland, which is Africa’s biggest antelope. The Drakensberg is also popular with birders. The critically endangered bearded vulture is surely the most spectacular bird sighting to be had here and its massive wingspan makes for great images against the backdrop of the rugged mountains or as it soars over the green valleys below.
With each hour that passes during the day here, the mountains take on different hues and dimensions depending on the shadows cast by the trajectory of the sun. Sunsets are always memorable and
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so are the storms. The Drakensberg is probably my favourite place in South Africa to get away from the pace of urban life and clear my head.Scenery and hiking.
You go to Golden Gate Highlands National Park for the dramatic scenery and glorious hiking – rather than a big game safari experience. Golden Gate is situated in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains in the Free State, forming the northern part of the Drakensberg arc. The park is named after the golden sandstone cliffs, which seem to glow in the sun. There is game here, including eland, zebra, reedbuck and black wildebeest, especially on the higher grasslands. We failed to see the bearded vulture, but did have great sightings of other mountain specials including bald ibis and ground woodpecker. Best of all are the well-marked hiking trails, varying in length, with route information available at the park reception. The self-catering chalets high up at the Highlands Mountain Retreat must have some of the best views of all SANParks accommodation across South Africa!
Mountain trails
The park’s family-orientated accommodation complex, with its sports facilities and outdoor activities, rather detracts from the wilderness vibe. But hikers can get a better feel for the rugged terrain by following any of the numerous day trails – or, for the more serious, the 31km overnight Rhebok Trail. On one hike, I watched lammergeyers driving baboons away from their