Return of the Wild: Exploring Lalibela’s Growing Sanctuary
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Lalibela Wildlife Reserve is one of the Eastern Cape’s growing number of Big Five destinations. What makes it stand out from some of the others is the sheer sense of space. While most Eastern Cape reserves are compact, Lalibela is relatively large and continuously expanding. The reserve began as a cluster of former farms, and the ongoing process of land rehabilitation has allowed the landscape to slowly return to its natural state. As more land is added and restored, wildlife populations increase and the ecosystem becomes richer every year.
The mix of Albany thicket and broad, rolling plains gives the reserve a varied feel. The thicket provides dense cover for browsers and shy species, while the open grasslands – once agricultural fields – now support impressive numbers of grazers. On one of our afternoon drives, we stopped for sundowners on a ridge overlooking a golden plain. As we raised our glasses, a massive herd of more than 200 blesbok streamed past. Moments like
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this make me return to the bush over and over again.
Game viewing is consistently strong. On a typical 2- to 3-night stay you can expect to see four of the Big Five: lion, elephant, buffalo and rhino. Leopards, as in most of the Eastern Cape, are extremely elusive, but you never know your luck. Cheetahs, however, thrive on the open plains, and we had a wonderful sighting of a relaxed female feeding on a kill.
One of the highlights of our visit was a magnificent male lion. He walked with purpose across a sunlit slope, stopping occasionally to call – deep, resonant roars that rolled through the valley as he searched for his pride.