The centrepiece of the highlands to the north of Mutare, Nyanga National Park, was at one time the personal property of Rhodes. The boulder-strewn moonscapes, dominated by immense onion-peel granite domes that dwarf their more publicised relatives in Matobo National Park, are inherently very beautiful – and unmistakably Zimbabwean. But Nyanga is also the most ecologically compromised of Zimbabwe’s major parks, with much of the natural cover of heath and indigenous woodland now replaced by timber plantations and fruit cultivation. Several wonderful sites lie close the park, notably the Bvumba and Chirinda Forest Reserve, which protects several very rare bird species in what is Africa’s most southerly true rainforest, and the wonderful waterfalls and highland meadows of the Chimanimani Mountains.