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Expert Reviews of Laikipia Plateau (6 Reviews)

Laikipia Plateau Safaris Laikipia Plateau
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4.0000 / 5 4 /5
4.0000 / 5 3.8333 / 5 3.1667 / 5 3.6000 / 5

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Ranchland Reclaimed for Wildlife

4 / 5 4 /5
4 / 5 4 / 5 4 / 5 4 / 5
This intriguing part of Kenya consists of a 9,500 sq km mid-altitude plateau running northwest from the moist highland saddle between Mount Kenya and the Aberdares, and incised by the Ewaso Nyiro and Ewaso Narok Rivers. Ecologically, it is remarkable for its intermediate location between the moist central highlands and dry northern badlands, which has led to a wide variety of species, including northern specials such as reticulated giraffe and Grevy’s zebra. The country’s second-largest protected ecosystem (after Tsavo), Laikipia is also unusual in that it is not one state-owned entity, but a network of perhaps two dozen small private conservancies, most reclaimed from what was formerly community-based or private European-owned ranchland. It is thus the only part of Kenya where wildlife numbers have significantly increased since independence. Each of the region’s properties – a list that includes Lewa, Ol Pejeta and Solio – has its own character, but the general trend is towards
Read more small exclusive lodges or tented camps, and collectively they protect the country’s largest populations of black rhino, greater kudu, Jackson's hartebeest, Grevy’s zebra and African wild dog, as well as plenty of lion, leopard and other predators. The scenery is also impressive, with the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya prominent on a clear day.
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Laikipia: The Future of Kenyan Conservation

4 / 5 4 /5
4 / 5 3 / 5 3 / 5 4 / 5
Many have been conditioned to think that the national parks and reserves are the best places to see wildlife, but Laikipia is one place that challenges such thinking (it certainly changed my habits of a lifetime). This vast patchwork of private and community conservancies have incredible wildlife and showcase the radical idea that wildlife and local communities can live and thrive together. By taking former cattle ranches and working with (rather than excluding) local Samburu and other local communities, Laikipia is a significant step away from the national park model. It’s also a world of exclusive, luxury lodges and intimate wildlife-watching experiences, and the proof is in some of Kenya’s best wildlife experiences – signature species include rhinos (both black and white), elephants and lions (with around 270 spread across the plateau), as well as some real local specialties, such as the Somali ostrich and Grevy’s zebra. And as most of the conservancies are community-run and
Read more open only to those staying at the lodges within conservancy boundaries, and as these are privately or community owned lands where night drives and off-road driving are permitted, you’ll have that all-too-rare pleasure of having what you discover all to yourself and be very close to the animals.
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The Future of African Conservation

4 / 5 4 /5
4 / 5 3 / 5 4 / 5 4 / 5
The Laikipia Plateau has no distinct boundaries, no start or end point, but to generalise it’s the huge chunk of land falling away to the north of Mt Kenya down to the burning semi-desert of northern Kenya proper. On paper this seems a strange area for a safari. There are no big-name national parks here (in fact there are no national parks or reserves at all) and the landscape is a patchwork of ranch and farmland and community lands. But wildlife of all shapes and sizes is not just present here, by and large it’s positively flourishing thanks to the work of numerous individuals, organisations and local communities to create a new conservation and tourism model that allows people and wildlife to live side by side in a manner that is mutually beneficial to all. From humble beginnings the project is working a treat and many experts now point to the Laikipia Plateau as the model for the future of conservation in Africa.

What I find most striking about a safari to Laikipia is
Read more how obviously conservation here is run as a business. There are numerous lodges set on private and community lands and the safari experience is very exclusive if not authentically wild. In most cases you will be one of only a handful of guests and staff will go out of their way to show you what you want to see. You want rhino? Then they will find you one. Lion? Not a problem. But it’s not just the wildlife viewing that is the attraction. Being on private land means that visitors can participate in horse-riding safaris, walking safaris, night safaris and numerous other activities. Lots of emphasis is also placed on community and cultural interaction. Although, with probably around two dozen conservancies here, the experience is different at each one, so check out the website of each lodge carefully before committing to one.

To summarise, while there are wilder areas in Kenya there are few that are as beautiful, so rich in wildlife and, most importantly, where your presence really does benefit both locals and wildlife. For that reason I would say that for anyone who can afford the often high prices, Laikipia is an essential experience for the ultimate in exclusive safari.
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A Patchwork of Conservancies Where People, Cattle and Wildlife Coexist in Harmony

4 / 5 4 /5
4 / 5 3 / 5 4 / 5 3 / 5

Laikipia Plateau in central Kenya covers an elevated area of approximately 9500km2 between the Great Rift Valley and Mount Kenya. Rather than being one entity, it is a mosaic of private ranches and community conservancies working together to protect habitats and promote sustainable land use. Although it’s a mixed bag, these private reserves are generally well stocked with wildlife including some of the northern specials such as reticulated giraffe and Grevy’s zebra. Most notable are the rhinos; both black and white rhino are very common. Accommodation is mostly in the form of small eco-friendly lodges and tented camps offering all-inclusive packages. The experiences offered are varied. Walking safaris and horseback riding are exciting alternatives to the usual game drives and you might also be offered a cultural tour to a local Samburu community.

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Beautiful Landscapes and a Sanctuary for Black Rhinos

4 / 5 4 /5
4 / 5 3 / 5 5 / 5 0 / 5

Laikipia County is in the middle of Kenya. The conservancies here (mostly former ranches) are leading the way in black rhino protection, with around half the country’s population in their care – and more. Ol Pejeta Conservancy, for example, is home to the last two northern white rhinos in the world (which you can meet) and has a special endangered species enclosure for black rhinos, Grevy’s zebras, Jackson’s hartebeests and other at-risk animals. The jagged peaks of Mount Kenya, the country’s highest point, are visible when the weather’s clear; it’s a beautiful landscape of rolling hills. It’s also an easy drive (around four hours) from Nairobi and there’s a variety of accommodation options from super-luxe to budget/self-drive. I love all the activities available in Laikipia, expanding the offering beyond game drives, including meeting the anti-poaching dogs at Ol Pejeta.

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A Huge Region That Proves Traditional Pastoralists, Commercial Farmers and Wildlife Can All Co-Exist

4 / 5 4 /5
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The Laikipia region stretches from the western flank of Mount Kenya into Kenya’s little-visited northern territory and has a landscape that includes open grassy plains, semi-desert acacia bush, high altitude plateaus and forested valleys. It isn’t a national park or reserve, but is divided into huge wildlife conservancies, which are either privately or communally owned by large-scale ranchers and Maasai or Samburu communities – all of which are totally devoted to wildlife conservation but are working cattle and other livestock operations too. It’s one of Kenya’s few safari destinations where you can see significant numbers of black rhino, as well as elephant, Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, and perhaps even wild dog. My drives on the more dusty remote roads have been quite difficult at times, although Lewa and Ol Pejeta are reached more easily from the main road that encircles Mount Kenya, and I’ve seen huge amounts of game at both. Other Laikipia lodges – often lovely
Read more private homesteads on ranches – are best reached by flight so a safari can be expensive. But each usually offers plenty of experiences, from camel and horse riding to game drives and walks, and Laikipia’s biggest appeal is exclusivity, free from the hordes of game vehicles and flashing cameras found in regular parks.
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