​Expert Reviews – Masai Mara NR

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Expert
Sue Watt   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: Dry season

Sue is an award-winning writer who specializes in African travel and conservation. She writes for national newspapers, magazines, Rough Guides and Lonely Planet.

16 people found this review helpful.

Migration madness in the Mara
Overall rating
4/5

As neighbour to Tanzania’s Serengeti, the obvious attraction of the Mara is the chaotic migration of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest and zebra during July/August and then in October as they follow the scent of greener pastures. I was there in early August, with the wildebeest swarming like ants across the savanna, and was lucky enough to see frenetic river crossings as nervous wildebeest and zebra sensed crocodiles hiding in the shadows waiting silently to grab the bold or the vulnerable. Their arrival signifies a feeding frenzy for predators too and we frequently saw whole prides of lions, cubs included, walking slowly with swollen bellies, licking their bloodstained faces after the kill.

But there’s much more to the Mara than the migration. Its sweeping plains are home to masses of animals that include the Big Five, although rhino are quite difficult to find, and its birdlife is tremendous. Unsurprisingly, it attracts masses of tourists too, catering for all budgets, so if you want to avoid the crowds, steer clear of the high season.

Another tip for avoiding the crowds is to stay in one of the conservancies bordering the park. These are owned by local Maasai who benefit from leasing the land to just a few lodge owners. It’s a complete win-win situation – with only a handful of lodges on each conservancy, visitors get a great place to stay with few other tourists; the wildlife has returned to what was once deserted land due to overgrazing by cattle; and the Maasai get a welcome and not insubstantial income. I stayed at Naboisho Conservancy and was blown away by the amount of game on the plains.

Expert
Ariadne van Zandbergen   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.

13 people found this review helpful.

Life and death in the Maasai Mara
Overall rating
4/5

The Maasai Mara seems to be a place of constant drama. I can’t remember many drives on these vast grassy plains without something exciting unfolding in front of me. Of course most exciting wildlife viewings involve some predator activity and predators seem to be in huge supply.

Some areas of the Mara get a lot of tourist traffic which takes away of the experience, but on the other hand, the predators seem so used to vehicles that you can really observe their behavior. They just go on as if you weren’t there. I’ve had a leopard using my vehicle as a cover to approach its prey. I’ve also seen a cheetah, which usually likes to sit on a termite hill to scan the surrounding plains for gazelles, sit on a car bonnet to do just that. Lions are often found hunting or on a kill. Any kill in the Mara seems to attract lots of scavengers as well. Hyenas and vultures are usually the first ones on the scene and jackals are never far off.

All this drama carries out throughout the year, but the biggest spectacle unfolds around June-July, when the wildebeest migration arrives from the Serengeti. Predators, especially the opportunistic lions, seem to be even more prolific and this is the time of the year for the Nile crocodiles to get their fill during the famous river crossings. The Mara, a place of life and death, is no place for the softhearted.

Expert
Lizzie Williams   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Lizzie is a reputed guidebook writer and author of the Footprint guides to South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe.

11 people found this review helpful.

A timeless safari experience with a full complement of African animals
Overall rating
4/5

Kenya’s best-known reserve, it’s everything you’d expect of an African wilderness area; rolling plains, rocky outcrops, and deep green winding rivers full of hippos and crocs. Its animal diversity is one of the greatest in East Africa and all of the Big 5 is easily found. However I find it can at times get overrun with tourist pop-up minibuses, and the bewildering amount of lodges and camps means that its ‘wildness’ may feel sanitised and the experience can be ‘package-holiday’ like. Nevertheless, you can’t beat the drama of the Mara – a massive migratory herd of wildebeest and their zebra friends marching across the plains, a cheetah making a mad dash through the grassland, a group of hyena squabbling over a carcass, or a hungry croc dramatically rising from the waters in the Mara River. Its popularity and appeal is also because the Mara offers a varied choice of safari options across most budgets. For a start you can either get there by air or road, and accommodation ranges from large family-friendly lodges in the reserve, super-luxurious and intimate camps in one of the conservancies or group ranches, to budget banda/tented accommodation outside Talek, Sekenani and Ololaimutiek gates. But whatever your safari arrangements are for the Masai Mara, you can be sure of plenty of dazzling animal action.

Expert
Heather Richardson   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: October

Heather is a British travel / conservation journalist, and has written for publications and broadcasters such as the BBC, Departures, the Telegraph and the Sunday Times.

9 people found this review helpful.

Superb wildlife, but way too many people
Overall rating
4/5

Known for its prolific big cats and the dramatic Great Migration river crossings, the Maasai Mara is probably one of the most famous wildlife destinations on the planet – and it shows. The national reserve is suffering a bad case of overtourism, with far too many vehicles hemming in the wildlife at any given sighting. There are some camps that have made it their policy to avoid the crowds – these places usually employ the best guides who can find their own sightings without relying on the radio that’s used to share wildlife findings (Asilia is good and so is Enaidura Camp) – do your research before booking, as a guide can make or break your stay in the Mara. Alternatively, the surrounding Mara Conservancies, which are private, offer the best experience.

Expert
Lucy Corne   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: December

Lucy is travel writer for a range of publications, including Lonely Planet's guides to Africa, Southern Africa and South Africa.

8 people found this review helpful.

Where culture meets nature
Overall rating
4/5

My first safari experience was a tough act to follow. By day we spotted lions sheltering in emerald-green foliage and spent hours photographing a leopard napping next to the kill it had hoisted into a tree. By night, we were treated to a little Masai culture, with folklore tales and after-dinner dance performances. The Masai Mara is deservedly popular, with its range of accommodation to suit all budgets, its elegant and striking Masai people who sometimes work as guides and its plethora of animals that includes the Big Five and practically every other species you're likely to have on your checklist.

Expert
Harriet Nimmo   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Harriet is a zoologist with more than 20 years’ experience. She has the privilege of working with the world’s top wildlife photographers and photo-guides.

3 people found this review helpful.

Avoid the Masses
Overall rating
4/5

The Masai Mara is undoubtedly one of the most outstanding safari destinations in all of Africa. It has classic rolling savannahs, abundant big cats and hosts the greatest show on Earth: the wildebeest migration.

But sadly, mass tourism is at risk of spoiling the national reserve, compounded by the unacceptable behaviour of a minority of guides. It is very difficult to have a wilderness experience when other vehicles are racing towards you to see what you have spotted. Vehicles jostle around predators and we have witnessed cheetahs being disturbed when they are trying to hunt. There can be hundreds of vehicles lined up on the riverbanks during the migration waiting for the wildebeest to cross – something the wildlife documentaries do not show.

Due to mounting criticism and negative publicity, there does seem to be an increasing effort by key Mara stakeholders to improve the management of the park. When we visited the national reserve most recently, there appeared to be more rangers monitoring tourist vehicles at the wildebeest crossings.

However, having said that, if you want to go to the Masai Mara, consider travelling during low season and/or staying on one of the private concessions that border the national reserve. These are owned by the local Maasai communities and have good populations of wildlife, but far fewer lodges and tourist vehicles.

Expert
Dale R Morris   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Dale is a multi-award-winning writer and photographer with more than 500 published magazine articles featured in magazines such as National Geographic, BBC Wildlife, Travel Africa, and CNN Travel.

1 person found this review helpful.

Unadulterated Drama
Overall rating
4/5

When 1.5 million wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebra make their way north from Tanzania’s Serengeti and into Kenya’s Masai Mara, they must cross rivers, all of which harbor monster-sized crocodiles. It’s a spectacle I have witnessed numerous times, but it always leaves me feeling a little conflicted.

From one perspective, I am privileged to be an onlooker at one of the most iconic wildlife events the world has ever known. But on the other hand, it can be brutal. Not only do many of the wildebeest end up being converted into crocodile poo, they also have a tendency to crush and injure one another in the frenetic stampede to get across to the other side. It’s pure drama. Violent, magnificent, heart-wrenching, and never to be forgotten.

However, the Mara is so much more than just the mayhem of the crossings. The big five are generally a guarantee (with perhaps the exception of rhinos), elephants are two a penny, and the sight of rolling plains literally festooned in millions of wildebeest can sometimes overload the senses. Expect to see, well, pretty much everything.

You’ll also likely see lots of tourists and minibus safari cars (especially around predator sightings), but for a price, it’s possible to escape the maddening crowds by staying in one of the many luxury lodges situated in private concessions bordering the main park.

Average Expert Rating

  • 4.4/5
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star 8
  • 4 star 7
  • 3 star 2
  • 2 star 0
  • 1 star 0
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