Semuliki National Park

An Alluring but Frustrating Bird-watching Destination

On paper, you could make a strong case for Semuliki National Park being the single most alluring bird-watching destination anywhere in Uganda. The statistics are astonishing. A total of 435 bird species have been recorded here, a checklist that includes 35 Congo-Guinea biome specials (including half a dozen different hornbills) known from nowhere else in East Africa. The reason for this avian abundance and wealth of regional rarities is that Semuliki is essentially an extension of the lowland jungle that blankets the Congo Basin, and as such it has a very different species composition to other East African forests.

In practice, Semuliki NP’s merits are a little more complicated. For one, the park lies off the main safari circuit and currently has absolutely no accommodation (though it can be visited as a day trip from Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve or the town of Fort Portal). The surrounding border area has been prone to occasional outbursts of violence in recent years, which is an obstacle to the development of proper tourist facilities. Furthermore, while birding is potentially exceptional, many of the key Congo-Guinea species are quite difficult to see on a casual visit. So, with there being so much avian variety elsewhere in Uganda, the actual case for diverting to Semuliki NP, even on a dedicated bird-watching tour, is weaker than it sounds on paper, at least within the duration of a normal holiday.

Having said all that, I’ve visited Semuliki NP on at least five previous occasions, and always enjoyed it. The descent from Fort Portal, along the northern contours of the Rwenzori Mountains, is one of the most scenic drives anywhere in Uganda. Once in the park, the jungle-lined hot springs at Sempaya are both pretty and impressive, and you're almost certain to see a few interesting birds and possibly some monkeys in the area. Still, as a birding destination, unless you do an overnight hike on the Kirumia River Trail with a knowledgeable local guide, Semuliki NP frustrates as much as it rewards.