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Wildlife viewing at Shaba is generally less productive than in the better-known Samburu, at least in terms of quantity. Though
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all three big cats occur, sightings are unpredictable and during my three-day visit the only evidence came in the form of fresh lion tracks. Elephants pass through seasonally and large buffalo herds congregate around the springs. Other large mammals include arid-country species such as reticulated giraffe, oryx, gerenuk and the rare Grevy’s zebra. It is also a good park for seeking out such lesser-known species as bat-eared fox and aardwolf, and a striped hyena foraging in front of the lodge was a highlight of my stay. The impressive bird life includes numerous raptors, dry-country specials such as coursers and bustards, and – for the dedicated birder – the endemic Williams’ lark. Furthermore, Shaba is far less visited than neighbouring Samburu, and you will thus have the park’s impressive terrain largely to yourself as you seek out its more subtle charms.
The Wild North
What I like about this park is how
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quiet it is. There are only two camps here (including Joy’s camp, one of the most ornate tented camps in Kenya) and I have spent full days here without seeing a single other tourist safari vehicle. This gives Shaba a wonderfully wild feel. One of my abiding memories of a safari here was climbing to the top of one of the granite outcrops known as a kopje for a sundowner drink. After 20 minutes we looked down towards the parked jeep to see three lionesses prowling around between us and the jeeps. I did what any sensible grown-up would do in such circumstances and quickly knocked back a couple more G&Ts (for gin-infused courage and to numb the pain if we didn’t get back to the jeeps!).One of Northern Kenya’s Desert Gems
There’s a good reason why Joy Adamson set up her leopard research operations in Shaba National Reserve and these days many people return to relive those famous experiences (albeit on a markedly more grandiose scale these days) at the luxurious Joy’s Camp. Big cat sightings are far from guaranteed but even if you just sit still at the waterhole where Joy camped (and was murdered), the procession of wildlife that passes through is truly astounding. Without even moving from your chair in front of your perfectly appointed Hemingway-style tented suite you are likely to have good sightings of elephant, oryx, zebra, giraffe and impala. When water gets extremely scarce in nearby Samburu National Reserve then Shaba, with its springs, can often be the best bet. It can get hot and dusty in this area too, but this park, with its sandy gullies, rocky lava plains and spectacular kopjes gives the feeling of remote, backcountry Africa and you will rarely see other visitors.