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Write a User ReviewMagical mountain gorillas
I’m fortunate through my work to have tracked mountain gorillas six times and it never disappoints – it is the ultimate wildlife encounter. In Volcanoes National Park it’s a very smooth and well-managed operation, with strict rules to ensure gorillas aren’t adversely affected by visitors. These include – but aren’t limited to – keeping a distance of 7m from the gorillas (although gorillas don’t know this), never tracking gorillas if you have a respiratory infection or diarrhea, and never touching the animals.
Volcanoes National Park is often considered an ‘easier’ trek than those in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, the other main center for tracking mountain gorillas. However, if you’re allocated to Susa B group, this may not be the case – their home territory lies high up Mount Karisimbi and it’s an exhausting hike to reach them.
Another big difference between the two parks is the cost of permits. The Rwanda Development Board
Volcanoes National Park is often considered an ‘easier’ trek than those in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, the other main center for tracking mountain gorillas. However, if you’re allocated to Susa B group, this may not be the case – their home territory lies high up Mount Karisimbi and it’s an exhausting hike to reach them.
Another big difference between the two parks is the cost of permits. The Rwanda Development Board
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unexpectedly doubled its permit price to US$1500 in 2017, while Uganda’s is US$700. Rwanda has very high end, ultra-expensive lodges, seemingly aiming to make it the ‘Botswana’ of gorilla tracking and focusing on high-income, low-impact tourism. One consequence of this is that many potential visitors have turned instead to neighboring Uganda.
Rwanda’s Gentle Giants
Tracking mountain gorillas is one of Africa’s top bucket-list experiences. People often ask me whether it lives up to the hype. Is it worth the money (US$1,500 for a permit in Rwanda)? My answer is always YES… Being close to these gentle giants in their wild habitat is something you’ll never forget. Such a unique experience is priceless. Although chimps are more closely related to humans, gorillas seem to connect to us more. Nothing prepares you for being stared at by a gorilla. And that is exactly what they do: they seem to be looking at us as much as we are looking at them.
I’ve been privileged to track gorillas in Volcanoes National Park more than a dozen times, and each experience has been totally different from any other. One memorable encounter was when the whole troop followed me down the mountain to the boundary of the forest on our way out. I’ve seen a conflict between two silverbacks (very scary), youngsters playing in bamboo, a mother nursing a newborn
Aside from gorilla tracking, there is lots more to do in Volcanoes National Park. Most popular is spending an hour with a troop of habituated golden monkeys. If you haven’t spent much time at altitude, this is a great one to acclimatize before your gorilla trek. The hike to Dian Fossey’s Research Station is quite easy and especially worthwhile if you’re familiar with the famous primatologist’s heartbreaking story. As a keen hiker, I also climbed Bisoke Volcano and the views of the crater lake are more than worth the strenuous ascent.
I’ve been privileged to track gorillas in Volcanoes National Park more than a dozen times, and each experience has been totally different from any other. One memorable encounter was when the whole troop followed me down the mountain to the boundary of the forest on our way out. I’ve seen a conflict between two silverbacks (very scary), youngsters playing in bamboo, a mother nursing a newborn
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baby, and lots of other interesting interactions. Budget-permitting, I recommend booking two gorilla tracking permits on consecutive days. Just one hour spent with these fascinating primates might just feel too short.Aside from gorilla tracking, there is lots more to do in Volcanoes National Park. Most popular is spending an hour with a troop of habituated golden monkeys. If you haven’t spent much time at altitude, this is a great one to acclimatize before your gorilla trek. The hike to Dian Fossey’s Research Station is quite easy and especially worthwhile if you’re familiar with the famous primatologist’s heartbreaking story. As a keen hiker, I also climbed Bisoke Volcano and the views of the crater lake are more than worth the strenuous ascent.
Gorillas in demand
When demand outstrips supply, things tend to get pricey, and that’s what has happened in Rwanda with its gorilla trekking permits.
It has become a grade-A bucket list activity, but there are only so many habituated gorilla families available. Strict rules mean that tourist groups are limited to 8 persons, with a time limit of just 1 hour with these big and gentle apes.
The rules are there for a reason though. They prevent excessive disturbance to the apes, and even though an hour flies by all too fast, and the fee of $1,500 is astronomical, you’ll unlikely walk away from the experience feeling short-changed.
I have been lucky enough to see gorillas on numerous occasions, and it never gets old. They are almost human (only nicer) and they are, for the most part, gentle, chilled, and beguiling.
Whenever I visit Rwanda, it uplifts me to see all the tourists flocking there, spending money that directly benefits the local communities surrounding
Uganda offers a similar experience (but at half the price) and I truly hope that in the future, people will travel to other locations in Africa to see (and support) gorilla conservation initiatives.
It has become a grade-A bucket list activity, but there are only so many habituated gorilla families available. Strict rules mean that tourist groups are limited to 8 persons, with a time limit of just 1 hour with these big and gentle apes.
The rules are there for a reason though. They prevent excessive disturbance to the apes, and even though an hour flies by all too fast, and the fee of $1,500 is astronomical, you’ll unlikely walk away from the experience feeling short-changed.
I have been lucky enough to see gorillas on numerous occasions, and it never gets old. They are almost human (only nicer) and they are, for the most part, gentle, chilled, and beguiling.
Whenever I visit Rwanda, it uplifts me to see all the tourists flocking there, spending money that directly benefits the local communities surrounding
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the Volcanoes National Park. Without this support, it’s highly unlikely that these charismatic and extremely vulnerable apes would have survived the onslaught of poaching and habitat destruction that nearly consigned the species to oblivion during the 1970s and ’80s.Uganda offers a similar experience (but at half the price) and I truly hope that in the future, people will travel to other locations in Africa to see (and support) gorilla conservation initiatives.
Gorillas in the Mist
Protecting the Rwandan portion of the majestic Virunga Mountains, Volcanoes National Park warrants a five-star rating simply for its incredible scenery and the opportunity to track mountain gorillas in the wild – arguably the single most reliably rewarding wildlife experience Africa has to offer. I've tracked gorillas more than five times in this park, and every experience was different, but it is always an amazing and unforgettable day out.
Another highlight for wildlife-lovers is a day hike to track a 100-strong troop of habituated golden monkeys. This strikingly marked species is listed as endangered and its main stronghold is the Virungas, due to deforestation elsewhere within its restricted range. As is the case with mountain gorillas, the favorite diet of golden monkeys is young bamboo shoots, and you almost invariably find them in the bamboo zone when suitable food is available. At other times, the monkeys often forage outside the park to raid crops, and this
Other activities are the relatively undemanding hike to Dian Fossey’s old research center and grave, and more demanding day or overnight hikes to various volcanic summits (most notably Bisoke with its gorgeous crater lake). The park still hosts small numbers of elephant and buffalo, as testified to by fresh droppings on the forest trails, but these are seldom seen. Likewise, while it has enormous potential as a birding destination, this is largely unreleased in practical terms, and birders wanting to see a good selection of forest species associated with Rwanda would be better off heading to Nyungwe or Gishwati-Mukura.
Another highlight for wildlife-lovers is a day hike to track a 100-strong troop of habituated golden monkeys. This strikingly marked species is listed as endangered and its main stronghold is the Virungas, due to deforestation elsewhere within its restricted range. As is the case with mountain gorillas, the favorite diet of golden monkeys is young bamboo shoots, and you almost invariably find them in the bamboo zone when suitable food is available. At other times, the monkeys often forage outside the park to raid crops, and this
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– to my surprise – is where we found them on our most recent visit. I was also struck by how much more habituated the golden monkeys are now than they were a few years ago.Other activities are the relatively undemanding hike to Dian Fossey’s old research center and grave, and more demanding day or overnight hikes to various volcanic summits (most notably Bisoke with its gorgeous crater lake). The park still hosts small numbers of elephant and buffalo, as testified to by fresh droppings on the forest trails, but these are seldom seen. Likewise, while it has enormous potential as a birding destination, this is largely unreleased in practical terms, and birders wanting to see a good selection of forest species associated with Rwanda would be better off heading to Nyungwe or Gishwati-Mukura.
Luxury gorilla tracking
For most visitors Rwanda means Volcanoes National Park, and Volcanoes National Park means mountain gorillas. This is the original Gorillas in the Mist destination, Africa’s most hyped gorilla park, and the place where famed American primatologist Dian Fossey spent many years studying the gorillas. Up-close (sometimes so close you can virtually feel the gorilla’s breath on you) mountain gorilla sightings are a given and the park’s vegetation (compared to some other gorilla parks) is comparatively clear and conducive to easy sightings. However, having been lucky enough to see mountain gorillas in every park in which they exist, the gorilla-watching experience at Volcanoes National Park feels a little too polished and, dare I say it, not quiet wild enough. When I tracked the gorillas here I was surprised to arrive at the park offices to find around 80 other tourists milling around, as well as souvenir sellers and a dance troupe. It didn’t exactly feel like the African wilderness.
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Once you’re with the gorillas, however, the experience is every bit as wonderful as you’ve heard, and if I based my review on the hour spent with the gorillas alone, then Volcanoes National Park would be hard to top. And of course, Volcanoes has more to offer than just gorillas and it’s these other activities that perhaps reveal the best of the park – tracking golden monkeys, bird watching, visiting local communities and, best of all, tough hikes to the misty summits of volcanoes.
This is one of the best parks in Africa if you allow sufficient time to partake in the broader range of activities on offer. The gorilla tracking itself is amazing, and with its upmarket accommodation and ease of access, it’s best suited to those who want a taste of the African rainforest without too much discomfort.
Once you’re with the gorillas, however, the experience is every bit as wonderful as you’ve heard, and if I based my review on the hour spent with the gorillas alone, then Volcanoes National Park would be hard to top. And of course, Volcanoes has more to offer than just gorillas and it’s these other activities that perhaps reveal the best of the park – tracking golden monkeys, bird watching, visiting local communities and, best of all, tough hikes to the misty summits of volcanoes.
This is one of the best parks in Africa if you allow sufficient time to partake in the broader range of activities on offer. The gorilla tracking itself is amazing, and with its upmarket accommodation and ease of access, it’s best suited to those who want a taste of the African rainforest without too much discomfort.
Pay Your Respects to Fossey
Mention Rwanda’s gorillas, and it’s their striking volcano habitat that is indelibly etched on my mind.
The pristine forested hillsides of the volcanoes are a treat in themselves. The walk through farmland and fragrant eucalyptus, stepping over the stone buffalo wall into the gorilla habitat, is all part of the adventure. I’ve tracked gorillas a number of times and each experience – even the stretch of habitat – can be quite different: luminous green scrubby bush, a moss-covered grotto next to a river, an avenue of bamboo. One of my favourite gorilla encounters was the time I fell backwards into a bush as a mother pushed past with her twin babies, her long black fur touching my leg. Oh how we giggled!
If you're really into gorillas, don't miss the replica of Fossey's mountain cabin at the excellent Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund display at the Ellen DeGeneres Campus, a stone’s throw from park headquarters. I find it very moving to imagine her
Time your visit to Volcanoes National Park right and you can get a free invitation to the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony, Rwanda’s annual celebration of gorilla conservation. It’s quite a show.
The high-altitude headache was my penalty for not drinking enough while tracking. (Tip: it's not enough to load your porter with the recommended 2L of drinking water, you have to actually drink it!)
The pristine forested hillsides of the volcanoes are a treat in themselves. The walk through farmland and fragrant eucalyptus, stepping over the stone buffalo wall into the gorilla habitat, is all part of the adventure. I’ve tracked gorillas a number of times and each experience – even the stretch of habitat – can be quite different: luminous green scrubby bush, a moss-covered grotto next to a river, an avenue of bamboo. One of my favourite gorilla encounters was the time I fell backwards into a bush as a mother pushed past with her twin babies, her long black fur touching my leg. Oh how we giggled!
If you're really into gorillas, don't miss the replica of Fossey's mountain cabin at the excellent Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund display at the Ellen DeGeneres Campus, a stone’s throw from park headquarters. I find it very moving to imagine her
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life in the misty forests, desperate to bring the world’s attention to the mountain gorillas’ plight.Time your visit to Volcanoes National Park right and you can get a free invitation to the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony, Rwanda’s annual celebration of gorilla conservation. It’s quite a show.
The high-altitude headache was my penalty for not drinking enough while tracking. (Tip: it's not enough to load your porter with the recommended 2L of drinking water, you have to actually drink it!)
Bucket List Destination
Gorilla viewing at Volcanoes National Park is extremely well managed and well organised – the Rwandan government recognises the financial value of gorilla tourism. With 12 gorilla families now habituated, up to 100 tourists can gather at the park headquarters each morning. However once you have been assigned your guide and head off to your nominated gorilla family, it does feel more of an authentic, personal experience. The guides work hard to try to allocate your group according to your level of fitness.
To learn more about gorilla conservation, you can visit the impressive new Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, close to the park entrance.
Although obviously the gorillas are the rock stars, there are supporting acts on offer at Volcanoes National Park. You can track the little-known and endangered golden monkeys in the bamboo thickets. It is also possible to hike up through the forest to Dian Fossey’s tomb, lying alongside the gorilla cemetery.
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Consider visiting Volcanoes National Park towards the end of your itinerary, to allow your body to have had time to adjust to Rwanda’s high altitude, before you embark on your hike up through the farmland to enter the national park boundary.
To learn more about gorilla conservation, you can visit the impressive new Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, close to the park entrance.
Although obviously the gorillas are the rock stars, there are supporting acts on offer at Volcanoes National Park. You can track the little-known and endangered golden monkeys in the bamboo thickets. It is also possible to hike up through the forest to Dian Fossey’s tomb, lying alongside the gorilla cemetery.
Mountain gorillas, trekking and birding
Volcanoes National Park is the Rwandan sector of the 8000km² Virunga massif. The greater conservation area encompasses six active and three extinct volcanoes, straddling the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The mountain gorillas move freely between the countries, with the greatest number of habituated groups residing in Volcanoes National Park, making Rwanda arguably the best place in Africa to go gorilla trekking.
With the 2017 gorilla census revealing a total mountain gorilla population of just over 1000 of these engaging primates in all of Africa, gorilla trekking is truly one of the ultimate life experiences. Rwandan gorilla permits aren’t cheap at $1500 per trekker, and your permit allows just one priceless hour in the company of these great apes, watching the gorilla family interact, eat, play, tease, sulk, doze and groom each other. Sitting quietly among a family of these gentle giants is a bucket list experience for any serious wildlife
While the gorillas are the star attraction at Volcanoes, there are also golden monkeys, birding walks, forest and waterfall hikes, mountain climbing (including an overnight hike up the 3800m Karisimbi volcano) and – for the less active – luxury lodges with comfortable views of the gorgeous mountain rainforest scenery.
With the 2017 gorilla census revealing a total mountain gorilla population of just over 1000 of these engaging primates in all of Africa, gorilla trekking is truly one of the ultimate life experiences. Rwandan gorilla permits aren’t cheap at $1500 per trekker, and your permit allows just one priceless hour in the company of these great apes, watching the gorilla family interact, eat, play, tease, sulk, doze and groom each other. Sitting quietly among a family of these gentle giants is a bucket list experience for any serious wildlife
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enthusiast: it is an extraordinary hour that you will remember forever.While the gorillas are the star attraction at Volcanoes, there are also golden monkeys, birding walks, forest and waterfall hikes, mountain climbing (including an overnight hike up the 3800m Karisimbi volcano) and – for the less active – luxury lodges with comfortable views of the gorgeous mountain rainforest scenery.