Lake Bogoria feels truly wild and otherworldly. When I visited, there was no one else in sight. It’s rapidly growing in popularity, though, as this has been one of the best places in Kenya to see flamingos in recent years. Estimates suggest that flocks of up to 1.7 million birds were congregating here, especially during the European winter, when migrants gathered, creating a shimmering canvas of pink. Numbers have since fallen as some flamingos return to Lake Nakuru. Few other species tolerate the lake’s inhospitable conditions, but ostriches are sometimes seen on the shore.
Fiercely alkaline, the lake is visually dramatic even when the flamingos are out of range, edged as it is with dark, volcanic rock. Natural hot springs steam and bubble on the western side.