Gonarezhou National Park

Home of the Grey Ghosts

Gonarezhou is a huge park, the second largest in the country, and in recent years it has reaped the fruits of a long and concerted conservation initiative. Many years ago, poaching devastated the wildlife here and earned the park the unfortunate reputation of being a park where big game is thin on the ground. Elephants were so seldom seen they were called the ‘grey ghosts’, though happily, no longer. On my most recent visit the change has been dramatic as I saw more species in my first 20 minutes than I’ve seen in any other park. Particularly gratifying is the way the elephants have become far more trusting of humans. Gonarezhou is dominated by two vast rivers. These are the Save, which runs along the northeastern boundary, and the tributary Runde, which courses through the park to a confluence at its most easterly tip. Between them, these rivers provide an excellent habitat for wildlife and birds, including the rather odd-looking antelope, the nyala, which is rare in Zimbabwe. There’s plenty of plains game in the vast interior making a wonderful pantry for the big predators, which include a healthily growing population of wild dogs, and at the confluence of the two rivers there is an excellent lodge that has extremely knowledgeable guides to take you to the best viewing spots. Don’t miss the splendidly golden burnished Chilojo Cliffs as the sun goes down, which is when the animals come to drink when the Runde is flowing. The excellent Chilo Gorge Lodge caters for those who seek comfort while camping, and 4x4 enthusiasts will be in their element here with plenty of ‘undeveloped’ camping spots along the Runde River.