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Write a User ReviewAn Arid Wilderness
The Kaokoveld of northern Namibia is the very definition of true wilderness. If you want to go on safari and feel like you’re dropping clean off the map, then this is the spot for you. Wildlife ekes out an existence in this arid and unforgiving land, so you stand a chance of seeing desert-adapted elephants, rhinos and occasionally lions, along with antelope attuned to surviving in this dry area. However, most people come here primarily to experience the local culture, appreciate the majestic landscapes, or simply to soak up the wildness vibe of this scenic region. I like that this is an area where you can observe and interact with local people without feeling like they have been corrupted by tourism, or you are simply participating in a staged show. This makes the traditional Himba villages a real highlight of any visit to the unspoiled wilderness of the Kaokoland.
Exploration of the Remote and Sparsely Populated Extreme Northwest of Namibia
With remote gravel roads and rugged terrain, this region is best known for self/four-wheel-driving. Most of the roads are challenging, and some of the mountain passes are no more than coarse scree and jagged rocks, but the greatest appeal of Kaokoland is the wonderful sense of space and isolation. We hardly encountered anyone else on our lonely drives – except when we were lucky to meet a community of the beautiful-looking nomadic Himba people on the side of the road. The highlight for me was the lovely cascading Epupa Falls in the far north, where the Kunene River is dotted with small vegetated islands of waving makalani palms, wild figs and precariously placed baobabs trees. Surprisingly for such a remote area, here we saw bee-eaters, fish eagles, the Malachite kingfisher and paradise flycatchers. For those with plenty of time and well-equipped vehicles, Kaokoland can be an adventurous wilderness experience.
Kaokoland
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need a 4WD, plenty of patience and a passion for adventure. But the rewards are significant, not least among them a safari experience of considerable depth and variety.Black Rhinos, Desert Elephants and Time Travel in Kaokoland
The unforgiving terrain means you won’t find great densities of game here, but the diversity of species is actually quite astounding considering the environment. For me, when you do spot big game here it makes it well worth the detour from Namibia’s more beaten paths.
The region, also known as Kunene, is said to be home to one of Africa’s largest populations of free-roaming black rhino; I’ve also seen desert-dwelling elephants and lions. Easier to spot are oryx, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, giraffe and other plains game.
Another fascinating aspect of this region is the iconic Himba people, whose red ochre-covered skin and distinctive copper jewelry have
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made them a favorite with photographers. The Himba’s traditional pastoral culture remains largely uninfluenced by Western civilization and adds another layer of intrigue to a Namibian safari.The Harsh Home of the Enigmatic Himba
Remote and arid even by Namibian standards, the part of the far northern interior dubbed the Kaokoveld supports one person every 2 sq km, making it one of the most thinly inhabited places anywhere in Africa. There is some good wildlife viewing here, though the only large mammals we saw regularly were the handsome oryx and endemic Hartmann’s mountain zebra. An odd sight running through the heart of this arid region is the wide Kunene River, which forms the border with Angola, and attracts keen birdwatchers for the opportunity to see rarities such as Dickinson’s kestrel and Cinderella waxbill. But my overwhelming memory of the area is our encounters with the charismatic Himba, a staunchly pastoral people whose ochre-red braided hair, costumes of hides and beads, makeshift huts, and dedicated love of cattle reminds me greatly of the desert-dwelling pastoralists of the Ethiopia–Kenya border area.
Scenery To Die For
On either side of this powerful torrent (the north bank lies in Angola), you will find countless miles of empty deserts, bare rock mountains, and vast gravel planes. But despite the aridity and an overall lack of standing water, Kaokoland still manages to support a large contingent of wildlife, crocodiles included.
The Kunene, with its beautiful Epupa Falls, is, however, an anomaly in what is otherwise a seriously parched-out wilderness.
Kaokoland is an adventurer’s paradise, and, in my opinion, there is no better place for a serious self-drive 4x4 road trip. I have used
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dried-out riverbeds as roads where I have encountered desert-adapted elephants, digging for water with their tusks and trunks. There’s also a chance to see desert-adapted black rhinos, as well as arid-tolerant lions. The beautiful Himba people, with their ochre-colored skin and ornate hairstyles, also call this region home.Temperatures in summer are silly, enough to melt tempers, whilst rain can be as rare as carnivorous cows. But no matter the discomforts, the magnificent scenery, beautiful people, and specialized wildlife of Kaokoland make this place a must-see destination.
Life in the Desert
The Kunene region is also rich in cultural interest. It’s home to the Himba and Herero people, whose traditional customs, developed in response to the demands of the desert, continue largely intact. I’ve been lucky enough to spend a
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little time with community members, finding out about their distinctive way of life first-hand. For this, it’s crucial to find the right guide, with personal connections and a sensitive approach.The Survival of the Nomadic Himba People in Kaokoland
Kaokoland must be the wildest area in an already wild country. This tract of arid desert bordering Angola is very undeveloped. Having said that, you don’t need to be an intrepid explorer to venture out here. We flew here and stayed as guests at Serra Cafema Kunene Camp. As with all camps belonging to Wilderness Safaris, luxury and professionalism are the norm and you don’t have to worry about a thing. We did several drives through the dunes taking in the vastness of this rugged terrain. We saw some gemsbok running away from us and maybe a few ostrich, but wildlife is not the attraction here. Incredibly enough, the nomadic Himba people inhabit this inhospitable area and a visit to a temporary camp was a very rewarding experience. Another highlight not to be missed for any adrenaline junky is a quad bike ride in the dunes.