A magical, almost primordial, place apart.
My wife and I have visited Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve (the oldest in Africa, established in 1895) on four occasions – usually either before, or after, staying in St Lucia (on the coast to the east) so that I can experience the Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park (renamed iSimangaliso Wetland Park, November 2007) and Cape Vidal.
Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve is about 280 km (174 miles) north of Durban or if you are travelling from Swaziland (e.g., Lavumisa/Golela Border Post) it’s a 3½ hour (approx.) drive due south. The park occupies around 960 km² or 96,000 hectares (371 sq. miles or 237,221 acres) in the middle of Zululand, KwaZulu-Natal – and affords the lucky visitor some breathtaking vistas. If you are possessed of a vivid imagination, you might almost think that you are in “Jurassic Park”, half expecting to stumble across an apatosaurus or a herd of hadrosaurs. Rather than dinosaurs, however, you will, almost certainly, experience many close encounters with ‘white’ rhinos, giraffes, zebras, nyalas, chacma baboons, vervet monkeys, elephants, woolly-necked storks, wart hogs and cape buffalos. You might also be exceptionally lucky to see, hovering in the skies, a huge African Crowned Eagle which has an appetite for vervet monkeys and even small antelope.
If you are overnighting for a few days at Hilltop Camp and take the Forest Trail you may encounter the small, secretive Red Duiker antelope (another meal time favourite of the African Crowned Eagle) in the company of iridescently-feathered Crested Guinea Fowl and, usually nearby, the ubiquitous vervet monkeys.
Joining a morning game drive in the company of expert rangers is a ‘must’ and, as well as having a fair chance of seeing other members of the ‘big five’, you may have the joy of meeting an extraordinary bird – the ground hornbill strolling down a track.
The accommodation around Hilltop Camp is well-equipped and more than adequate for any traveler. Remember to book in advance. If you are travelling independently, allow adequate time to reach your accommodation before the rapid nightfall. (Pack a torch/flashlight for ambling around camp at night.)
The food (buffet style) is quite good and can include (very tasty) game (e.g., Kudu); reasonable selection of wines. (As a general rule, the food in South Africa is of very high quality and naturally produced - not 'adulterated' or factory farmed as in the U.S. or much of the U.K.) Well-stocked ‘Curio Shop’. Generally friendly, helpful staff. The rangers are truly excellent and a mine of information and expert knowledge.
Essential to hire a car when visiting South Africa (if you want to experience as much as possible) – preferably a ‘high-sided’ vehicle with a bit of ‘poke’.
Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve is one of the planet’s enchanted places – which draws my wife and I irresistibly to it on every occasion when visiting the hugely varied and stunningly beautiful South Africa. Go visit!