​Expert Reviews – Murchison Falls NP

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Expert
Philip Briggs   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Philip is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.

10 people found this review helpful.

Thundering waters and smirking shoebills
Overall rating
4/5

I don’t recall who it was that described Murchison Falls as the most spectacular thing to happen to the world’s longest river en route from Lake Victoria to the Mediterranean, but I’d have to agree with them. This truly spectacular waterfall sees the Nile funnelled explosively through a narrow cleft in the rift escarpment to form a plume of foaming white water so loud you can barely hear yourself think.

Mind you, the launch trip from the park headquarters at Paraa to the base of the waterfall is pretty spectacular in its own right: giant crocodiles lurk menacingly from the sandbars, hippos grunt away in the shallows, and more often than not you’ll see a few elephants or buffalos come down to drink. I’ve had mixed luck with game drives through the undulating borassus grassland north of the river, but buffalo, Jackson’s hartebeest, oribi, Uganda kob, and the localised Rothschild’s giraffe and the unusual patas monkey are more-or-less certain, and more often than not I’ve seen lion and elephant.

Like most Ugandan parks, Murchison Falls is a wonderful bird destination, with pride of place going to the oddball shoebill, a large and eagerly sought slate-grey papyrus dweller that I’ve seen perhaps a dozen times along the Nile here. The far south of the greater Murchison Falls Conservation Area now incorporates a reliable chimpanzee-tracking site in Budongo Forest, which also hosts several unusual forest birds including East Africa’s only population of Puvel’s illadopsis (quite easily located by call).

The latest development in Murchison Falls is the opening of the remote Kisangani Sector as a low-volume tourist area used mainly by the brand new Papa’s Camp. I was privileged to spend a couple of nights in this wonderful wilderness area in November 2023, and was blown away by the remote location and beautiful landscape, which runs south from a forested stretch of the Nile upstream of the main waterfall. Here, we saw large herds of giraffe, buffalo, kob and elephant, along with a lioness up a tree - something I've never before seen over a dozen or so previous visits to Murchison Falls NP.

Expert
Ariadne van Zandbergen   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.

10 people found this review helpful.

Murchison Falls National Park – where the Nile tumbles down the Rift Valley escarpment
Overall rating
4/5

Although the wildlife viewing is excellent in this park, it is the scenery that really gets to me. There are rolling grassy hills studded with borassus palms and teeming with plains animals, papyrus swamps inhabited by the sought-after shoebill, and forests that provide refuge to chimpanzees. But, the main feature in the park is the Victoria Nile. A highlight of any visit is a boat trip up the Nile to one of the most spectacular sights of water pushing through a cleft in the escarpment: Murchison Falls. Gliding on this mighty river is an unforgettable experience: there are hippos snorting everywhere, elephants playing in the water, and lots of water birds along the shore. The afternoon boat trip is great for spotting animals coming to drink. Once we even saw a leopard from the boat. The main antelope in the park is the Uganda kob and big herds of them inhabit the grassy plains north of the river. If you watch these antelope carefully, you won’t have any problems spotting lions. The kob’s alarm signal, a high-pitched whistle is unmissable. Then it’s just a matter of following their gaze.

Expert
Stephen Cunliffe   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Stephen is a travel writer and avid conservationist whose work appears in prestigious magazines such as Africa Geographic and Travel Africa.

7 people found this review helpful.

Thundering Waterfalls and Decent Wildlife
Overall rating
4/5

Like Kidepo, this park in northwest Ugandan is a beautiful and wild place with plenty of wildlife still remaining. In my opinion the ultimate highlight must surely be the boat cruise up Africa’s longest river to view the mighty Nile as it thunders through a narrow cleft in the rock and tumbles down the waterfall from which the park takes its name. En route to the falls I’ve seen lions, elephants, huge crocodiles and innumerable pods of hippos, not to mention an outstanding array of waterbirds strewn across the riverbanks. Game drives can also be productive, although animals tend to be skittish and poaching is still a problem away from the tourist areas. I try to remind myself that my presence (along with other likeminded tourists) is bringing in valuable revenue and slowly helping to safeguard the future of this stunning park and its wild denizens.

Expert
Mike Unwin   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: September

Mike is an award-winning wildlife writer, former editor of Travel Zambia magazine and author of the Bradt Guide to Southern African Wildlife.

4 people found this review helpful.

A river runs through it
Overall rating
4/5

This highly rewarding national park – which lies some six hours’ drive northwest of the capital Kampala – is both Uganda’s largest and oldest conservation area, occupying just under 4,000 square kilometres in the far west of the country. It is named for the impressive cataract formed where the waters of the Victoria Nile squeeze through an eight-metre-wide gorge on their way downstream to Lake Albert, the shores of which also lie within the park. The park is bisected from east to west by this river, and it is from the southern side that a loop road offers access to the top of the falls. However, this southern sector, which consists primarily of dense bush and can be plagued by tsetse flies, is relatively unproductive for other wildlife. The northern sector, by contrast, consists of more open savannah and the game-viewing is excellent. During my recent visit, elephant, buffalo and the localized Rothschild’s giraffe were all abundant, while antelope in impressive numbers included hartebeest, waterbuck, kob and the largest population of oribi I’ve encountered anywhere in Africa. The park has a good reputation for predators, with both lion and leopard being seen daily during my visit (although not by me), and spotted hyena calling at night.

Perhaps the park’s most rewarding activity is a boat cruise on the river, with various options departing from beside the ferry crossing. Head east, upstream, for general riverbank game viewing, including large numbers of hippos and crocs, plus a great view of the falls. Head west, downstream, for your best chance of seeing a shoebill, perhaps Africa’s most sought-after bird, and a denizen of the papyrus swamps at the Lake Albert Delta. Birdlife is extremely rich throughout the park, including in the adjoining Budongo Forest reserve to the south, where there is also chimp tracking and a full range of other primates.

Expert
Alan Murphy   –  
Australia AU
Visited: May

Alan is a travel writer and author of over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guides to Southern Africa and Zambia & Malawi.

1 person found this review helpful.

Spectacular falls & diverse wildlife
Overall rating
4/5

While the boat trip to the base of the magnificent Murchison Falls is touted as the best way to see them, in fact the falls are better viewed from on top. Roaring through a narrow cleft in the rock, it is the best waterfall I’ve seen in East Africa. You can drive to the top of the falls, or catch the boat and hike up.

Apart from the falls, there is plenty of wildlife, including four of the Big Five (no rhino). There are also a lot of antelope easily seen, including Uganda kob, hartebeest, oribi and bushbuck. And there are extensive driving tracks allowing you to explore large areas of the park.

A decent array of accommodation in or near the park caters for most budgets.

Average Expert Rating

  • 3.7/5
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding

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