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my visits with the more interesting Lake Baringo a little further north, a distinctively different freshwater lake known for its peaceful beauty, rich birdlife and many crocodiles.
Flamingo Heaven
The hordes of flamingos that once inhabited the shallow waters of Lake Nakuru NP left sometime ago for another nearby lake, Lake Bogoria – although the situation can change and many have now returned to Lake Nakuru. I was stunned by the sheer numbers of these beautiful creatures wading delicately in the shallows of the picturesque lake, itself dwarfed by some humongous Rift Valley mountains. The flamingos form patterns of pink and white (greater and lesser flamingo are slightly different colours) on the blue-green lake waters and it reminded me of ice skaters creating complex, rhythmic and graceful patterns on the ice. It was a remote spot but I am glad I made the effort to come – I will long remember these magnificent birds.
If you manage to drag your attention away from the flamingos covering the lake waters, you may also spot warthog, dik-dik, impala and Grant’s gazelle lurking in the scrubby landscape. The drive in is rough, bouncy and dusty, but this really is a unique experience.
Flamingos and Pelicans in Lake Bogoria
As the name suggests, Lake Bogoria National Reserve, located in the Rift Valley, is centered around Lake Bogoria. The only road in the reserve follows the shore of the saline, alkaline lake famous for its vibrant pink flocks of flamingos that feed on the abundant algae. The reserve is also known for its geothermal activity, featuring hot springs and geysers that emit steam and mineral-rich waters.
As is the case with all the Rift Valley lakes, the number of flamingos fluctuates depending on water levels and algae availability. Flamingos aside, I’ve found the park very productive for waterbirds in general and watching big groups of pelicans fishing together has been a highlight for me.
The Flamingos’ Holiday Home
The worth of this small reserve depends almost entirely on one factor – the number of flamingos gathered there. I have visited it twice when there were few flamingos around, and it was pretty underwhelming, with livestock being more numerous than wildlife, though the lovely setting at the base of the Rift Escarpment provided some compensation, as did the trio of primeval geysers that erupt in a searing sulphuric haze to feed a network of multihued channels on the western shore. But when the million-strong flamingo flocks associated with Nakuru relocate here, it makes for a spectacular sight, whether viewed up close from the lakeshore, or panoramically from the cliffs that rise to the immediate west.