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Write a User ReviewKatavi National Park: Hippo Overload
Katavi National Park has often been called one of Africa’s best-kept secrets. But like all secrets, they get out eventually. Several new lodges have opened here over the years and, although it’s still off the beaten track, you won’t have the place to yourself anymore as we did years ago.
The grassy floodplains support huge numbers of animals. I’ve seen buffalo herds here in the thousands. Elephants are abundant too, and there seem to be lions lurking around every corner. But what makes Katavi truly unique is the wildlife spectacle that unfolds toward the end of the Dry season when thousands of hippos are tightly bunched up in the last remaining pockets of water of the diminishing Katuma River. Bulls regularly get pushed out and big fights are common. Monstrous crocodiles share the space and can sometimes be found lying on top of the hippos. A fantastic sight, but be warned that the stench is phenomenal too.
Katavi is mostly a pricey fly-in destination, but improved access roads make driving here a viable option too.
Primeval Africa
For most people these two things alone are reason enough to make the considerable effort, or expense, of getting to Katavi. I definitely fell into this category, but what surprised me most about Katavi was just how many other animals there were. Lions in particular seemed to be abundant and I probably haven’t seen so many in one park outside the Serengeti/Masai
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Mara eco-system. One evening I even saw lions eating an elephant!Getting to Katavi can be uncomfortable, but for backpackers it’s one of the few parks that can be explored fairly cheaply and easily reached by (long) overland bus journeys. For travelers with more money it’s easy but expensive to fly to Katavi. There are only a few camps here meaning there are few other visitors here (but it is becoming more popular and you will no longer have the place to yourself in high season).
Avoid the wet season when the animals disperse and getting around becomes close to impossible.
Welcome to the Wild West
Barely registering on most tour companies’ radar, the west of Tanzania is an amazing choice of destination if you have the time – and the cash – to do something completely different. There are only a handful of luxury tented camps in Katavi National Park, which is Tanzania’s fourth largest, and even these are only set up for part of the year. I adored my visit to Katavi for the feeling of total space and freedom it provided. I really felt like I could be in the Africa of 100 or even 200 years ago.
During the dry season, the game concentrates around the Katuma River in vast numbers, with hippos in particular congregating here en masse. I remember seeing a tiny calf all but squashed to death in the middle of a group of nearly 200 packed into a waterhole on one game drive. This is also the only place I’ve ever seen hippos ranging around out of the water during the daytime, presumably because there just isn’t room for all of them in the dwindling lakes and ponds.
A Forgotten Wilderness
An inaccessible quagmire in the rainy season, Katavi comes into its own during the Dry season, especially over July to October. At this time the Katuma River is reduced to a muddy trickle that forms the only source of drinking water for miles around, and the flanking floodplains support game concentrations that defy belief. On every visit to Katavi to date, I’ve seen several thousand-strong herds
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of buffalo, plenty of elephant, and lions on three out of four game drives.Katavi’s most unusual wildlife spectacle is provided by its hippos, which form hundred-strong pods that jostle for wallowing space in the Dry season, frequently leading to bloody territorial fights between males. The Katuma River is also home to some monstrous crocodiles, and the birdlife is prolific – a highlight being the thousand-odd black-capped night herons that roost in the vicinity of Ikuu Bridge between June and September.
Wildlife-filled Wilderness
Despite the beauty brought by the first rains, the best time to visit Katavi is during the dry months, when its plains are covered with large herds of zebras, impalas and buffalo, and its parched riverbeds and waterholes fill with hippos. Away from the floodplains, Katavi’s scenery can be somewhat monotonous woodland and brush. Yet it’s in the woodlands where you’ll have the best chances of sighting both roan and sable antelope.
While many visitors fly in, western Tanzania’s improving road network means that it’s now quite feasible and even enjoyable to reach Katavi by road. Yet the park still only sees a trickle of visitors
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in comparison with Tanzania’s Northern circuit. Katavi’s off-the-beaten-track feel, combined with its high Dry season concentrations of wildlife, are the main attractions. Another major draw is Katavi’s proximity to Lake Tanganyika, which opens up opportunities for wonderful combination itineraries.Cavorting hippos
Katavi is a little visited park in the west of Tanzania. Most guests fly in – although thankfully the shockingly bad access road has now been replaced by a new Chinese-built tar road. Katavi feels wild and remote and has beautiful miombo woodlands, extensive flood plains and seasonal lakes. There are large herds of buffalo and elephants and a great variety of bird life. I ticked off palmnut vulture and bat hawk. Katavi is most famous for its huge gatherings of hippo. During the dry season, the hippo congregate in the remaining water, crammed together in the muddy channels. I have never seen so many hippo, with lots of jostling, snorting and fighting males. Best of all the hippos roll completely around, 4 stubby legs stuck in the air, as they try to cover their sun-baked backs in the remaining water. The best time to visit is the dry season, July to October. In early June we were under siege from the tsetse flies.
Wildest Africa for the true connoisseur
Home to just three permanent safari camps, this untouched 4,500km2/1,737mi2 wilderness is the kind of safari destination that appeals to Africa addicts who love their wilderness and isolation more than their species checklists. Katavi is Tanzania’s third largest national park dominated by miombo woodland habitat and two enormous grassy, wetland plains – Katasunga and Chada – which attract wildlife in their thousands during the dry-season months from June to October. At this time of year, the Katuma and Kapapa rivers provide the only perennial water for many miles around and thirsty wildlife and grouchy hippos focus
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on the last remining pools. Thousands of impalas, waterbucks, topis, zebras and giraffes rub shoulders with big herds of buffalos and elephants in a magical wild African setting. The lions are vocal, and we heard their roars almost every night, while spotted hyenas and Nile crocodiles remain the most abundant and frequently encountered predators in the Katavi ecosystem.While the greater Serengeti sees over 150,000 visitors per year, Katavi seldom sees more than a few hundred over the same time period! If you want to be one of the lucky few to sample Katavi’s natural riches, the best bet (and least expensive way) is to use your own overland vehicle or to make use of the twice-weekly scheduled flights that link Katavi with Arusha and/or the neighboring Mahale Mountains.
One of the best kept secrets in Africa.
Though wildlife watching here is superb, its remoteness is the real appeal. There are more visitors to the Serengeti per day than there are to Katavi per year and I passed just one other vehicle during my two days in the park. Because of its remoteness Katavi is almost exclusively a fly-in safari destination,