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The wildlife spectacles here may be exceptional, but this is one country where the landscapes are every bit as spectacular. The Okavango Delta is one of Africa’s true epics, an ever-changing, elemental world of watery expanses and islands whose boundaries change with the seasons.
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The delta is the starting point for a string of iconic landscapes and safari destinations – Moremi, Savuti and Chobe to name just three – across the country’s north. Just beyond the reach of the Delta’s waters, the hallucinatory salt pans of Makgadikgadi extend towards an endless horizon, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve is a vast and enigmatic desert wilderness.I love following the barely discernible trails that snake through the delta, tracking the lions of Savuti, or drawing near to the great elephant herds of Chobe. But what I really love about Botswana is the chance to disappear into the Kalahari when the crowds of safari vehicles become too much. With its vast ancient river valleys and black-maned lions, the Kalahari is a soulful place, another elemental landscape that serves as a reminder that Botswana is one of the last great wilderness destinations on the continent.
Desert and Delta
A typical Botswana safari combines Chobe National Park, to the north, with Moremi and the Okavango Delta. I have done this overland as part of a low-budget package: the terrain was grueling and the camping truly wild, but the wildlife experience second-to-none. If your budget allows, however, there are any number of swanky lodges that you can visit on an upmarket safari. Either way,
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a late dry season trip will mean prolific game, including Africa’s greatest elephant population, plus excellent predator encounters – with wild dog perhaps easier to see here than anywhere else in Africa. Private concessions around the Okavango, and towards the Linyanti and Selinda regions in the north, boast some of Africa’s most exclusive safari experiences. More for purists, perhaps is the Kalahari, where big game is not guaranteed in such numbers, but unusual wildlife and wall-to-wall wilderness are the order of the day. The outlying salt pans, such as Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan, are fascinating destinations, with additional attractions such as breeding flamingos and stone-age remains.Botswana enthusiasts all have their favourite haunt. For some it’s the Savuti channel, in southern Chobe, where I’ve had elephants around my tent by day and hyenas by night. For others it’s the Boteti riverfront or Baines baobabs. Such names have safari aficionados salivating with thoughts of wilderness and adventure. One word of warning, though: if you try to explore the country on a limited budget and in an inadequate vehicle you’ll find it’s an easy place to get stuck. And with rainfall – or the lack of it – a critical factor in all locations, visiting the right place at the wrong time can be a disappointment. So plan your trip wisely.
Low-Impact Safaris at Their Best
The north, which receives far more water than the south, is home to Botswana’s prime safari destinations. The two blockbusters, Chobe National Park and the Okavango Delta, are unmissable,
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but the quieter private reserves which lie between them are equally superb in their own way.While it’s perfectly possible to explore independently, most visitors opt for an organised safari. Just about every variation is available, including camping, walking, self-driving, horseriding, elephant-back. A national policy which favours high-spending, low-impact tourism over mass-market alternatives means that prices tend to be high, but standards are too, and in my view Botswana’s best lodges, camps and guides rank among Africa’s very finest.
Desert to Delta and Everything In Between
Chobe is the elephant heartland of Africa and nowhere on the continent will you find these pachyderms in the same jaw-dropping concentrations as the Chobe region of northern Botswana. Nearby,
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the Savute Channel is renowned for its lions in much the same way as Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pans are famous for their mesmerising saltpans.Further south, the Kalahari Desert predominates and the rolling dunes of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, the sprawling sands of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, and diminutive Khutse offer off-the-beaten-track safari options to those who love big skies, wide-open space and arid, untrammelled wilderness with a surprising amount of wildlife surviving in these waterless lands. For me, the re-energising feeling that the wide-open spaces of this remote desert wilderness exude more than compensates for the high temperatures and logistical challenges of the Kalahari.
Botswana has made a conscious decision for its safari scene to be all about quality rather than quantity. Low numbers of high-paying tourists generate revenue and jobs without corrupting or taming its natural integrity. This far-sighted approach to wildlife tourism development has produced a country today that has it all: incredible wildlife viewing, mesmerising scenic beauty and a wilderness vibe second to none.
Southern Africa's Safari King
Botswana is, to my mind, southern Africa's most epic safari destination. Compared with many parks in neighbouring South Africa, Botswanan reserves such as Moremi take you deeper into the bush, meaning you spend longer in the animals' territory and see more of their interactions. You leave tarred roads far behind and, whether you’re on a luxury safari or a cheaper expedition, have a full-on experience of the African bush.
The drawback is that going on
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safari in Botswana doesn't come cheap. Indeed, it's part of the government's conservation plan to keep Botswana's parks and reserves fairly exclusive, thus limiting visitor numbers. Self-drive safaris are possible, if you have a 4WD with all the gadgets and experience of scrambling through the bush. For most people, however, an organised safari is the easiest route. Options range from group 'mobile safaris', on which you move around camping in different spots, to expeditions from five-star lodges.When I visited, I hired a car in Maun and drove to Planet Baobab for forays into the salt pans, and then returned to Maun for a one-week trip across Moremi and Chobe, run by Bush Ways Safaris. The itinerary worked nicely, mixing independent travel with a guided trip.
It's worth booking Botswanan safaris well in advance. Not just because of their popularity, but because you have to approach them in the opposite way to most holidays: book the safari first, then organise accommodation, flights and transfers around it (most safari operators can help with everything).
The expense and organisation are well worth it though. For awesome animal encounters, classic African landscapes and experiencing the heart of the bush, Botswana is right up there with the Serengeti.
The First-Class Airline Cabin of the Safari Scene
The Delta is the focus of most visits to Botswana, but I also loved the country’s salt pans – vast,
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eerie white landscapes punctuated by startling rock formations. If you have some extra time on your itinerary, I highly recommend heading out into this shimmering inland sea on a quad bike – unforgettable.A Dream of Water in a Thirsty Land
Go to the Okavango Delta and you’ll see what I mean. This miraculous oasis of palm trees, water lilies, open floodplains and crystal channels has been largely sub-divided into safari concessions that give visitors the illusion of having checked into their own exclusive wilderness to be explored by 4WD or mokoro – the Delta’s traditional dugout canoes. Here you’ll be living in the heart of big cat country and the same goes for Chobe National Park next door, where you’ll also see more elephants than anywhere else on earth. Why? Because only Botswana
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– a country bigger than France but with a population of fewer than two and a half million people – has enough space for the herds to roam at will.Botswana’s other big must-see attraction is the Kalahari – best experienced on a safari to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Nxai Pan National Park and Jack’s Camp on the edge of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Desert it may be, but come in March towards the end of the rainy season and you will find these vast thirstlands transformed and filled with all kinds of spectacular wild creatures, including black-maned Kalahari lions and flamingos by the million in Nata Bird Sanctuary at the eastern end of the pans.
Africa at Its Best
As remarkable as the elephants and other wildlife are (although for big cats I’d say that most of Botswana falls far short of the Serengeti and Masai Mara), my most abiding memories of the country are of the myriad, confused waterways of the Okavango Delta
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at sundown. Quite simply, these offered the best sunsets I have ever seen and drifting lazily over the placid waters in a mokoro (wooden kayak for you and I) is one of the great experiences of Africa.Botswana is a country with a split personality. On the one hand it’s lush, water-logged and ripe with life in and around the Okavango Delta and surrounding regions of the north. And with its wealth of wildlife, some of the standout lodges and safari operators in Africa and outrageously picturesque scenery, it’s hardly a surprise that most people focus their efforts on this region. But, this is only a fraction of Botswana. Most of the country is a hot, harsh, parched part of the Kalahari desert. Not as immediately obvious as the greener north, places like the Central Kalahari Game Reserve or the zebra-filled Makgadikgadi Pans National Park offer a startling contrast to the delta and, in the case of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and environs in particular, the opportunity to break the wildlife watching with some cultural interactions with the San Bushmen.
Botswana is a very safe, stable and prosperous African country with a safari infrastructure that’s second to none and yet it rarely feels crowded. One of the reasons for this is that Botswana has actively chased a high-end, exclusive safari clientele and while this helps to make it arguably the best safari destination in the world, it also means that a safari here is often far from cheap (unless you drive yourself and bush camp although even then many areas will remain out of reach to you). But if you can afford it, then I cannot recommend a Botswanan safari highly enough.
Desert and Delta Diversity … and Leopards Galore!
If – as many will feel – leopard sightings are your last great Big 5 aim, then Botswana is leopard country par excellence! I have made 5 visits to Botswana and, by some bizarre coincidence, have seen 6 leopards every time I have been there! Vast elephant herds are another frequent highlight of Botswana (Chobe and Tuli Block are particularly famed for this). I saw a herd of a hundred elephants in Tuli but rangers still speak of vast herds up to 400 strong! The Kalahari ranks for me as what might be Africa’s greatest and wildest safari location – you can travel for several days across the pans there without seeing a single other vehicle. The wetland wilderness of the Okavango makes for the perfect counterpoint to a long trip in the Kalahari.
Africa at Its Most Wild
The jewel in Botswana’s crown is the Okavango Delta. Whatever you do, take at least one mokoro (dug-out canoe) trip. It is just magical, gliding silently through the water, at eye level with the reed frogs and lechwe antelopes, and elephants sploshing past. A huge contrast to being in a vehicle. Adjoining the Delta is a mosaic of interlinked game reserves, private concessions and wildlife areas – Moremi, Khwai, Linyanti, Savuti and Chobe. These are all wonderful safari destinations in themselves and with great reputations for predator sightings.
As well as these classic safari destinations, there are the vast, empty wilderness areas of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Nxai Pan and the Central Kalahari Game
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Reserve. These make a very interesting alternative or add-on safari destination – if you go at the right time of year. You do not get the abundance of wildlife here, but you get a chance to see some of the more unusual species and desert specialists such as meerkat and brown hyena. And tucked away in the far corners of Botswana are Mashatu Game Reserve in the east, and the Kalahari Transfrontier Park in the south west – both offering yet more variations on the safari experience.Botswana has a reputation for being very high end, with the government’s “high value, low impact” approach to tourism. Mobile camping safaris can be a cheaper alternative and travelling outside of peak season can make a big difference. But there is a reason that many of the lodges in Botswana’s top safari destinations are booked up a year in advance….just go!
Where the Wild Things Are
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salt pans of Makgadikgadi to the sandy savannahs of the Kalahari to wondrous wetlands of the Delta.In spite of Botswana’s reputation as one of the most expensive safari destinations, with the government having long ago embarked on a policy of low-impact, high-value tourism, as we discovered, it is possible to see the best of the country on a modest budget. You simply need to forgo the luxury fly-in safaris with their posh lodges and comfy beds for an open 4WD, tent and a sleeping bag. There really is nothing more exhilarating than trying to fall asleep to lions roaring in the distance knowing that only a thin canvas wall separates you from the wildlife roaming outside. We chose a seven day, full participation tour which departed from Kasane. Be sure to bring your sense of adventure though, because you’ll be in for a long, hot and dusty ride!
The Only Thing Lacking Is a Hans Zimmer Soundtrack
Most of it consists of the Kalahari; a flat semi-desert dominated by golden grasses, mopane woodlands, and wide-open spaces. Parks such as the Central Kalahari Game Reserve will give you a very good idea of what the Kalahari is all about.
You will see arid-adapted animals such as the oryx and ostrich there, and you will likely find black-maned lions, cheetahs, and perhaps a brown hyena or two as well. Keep a sharp eye out, and you’ll have a chance of finding meerkats, bat-eared foxes, and if very lucky, perhaps a pangolin and aardvark too.
As with most parks in Botswana, you have the option to go it alone and do some bare-bones camping, or else go full five-star by staying in a beautiful lodge, the cost of which typically includes scrumptious food and expertly
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guided game drives.Another dry-zone highlight would be a visit to the Nxai Pan and Makgadikgadi Pans National Parks, both of which sport enormous salt pans that often fill up during the wetter months, drawing in large numbers of wildlife.
But the main attraction in this wild and rugged country is the Okavango Delta; a fan-shaped inland waterway that keeps things green and is home to countless animals.
You can explore by boat, by car, on foot, and even on a horse in some places, and you will almost certainly get to see most of the big five, along with other special animals such as wild dogs and rare birds.
Add to that, the wonderful Chobe National Park, with its incredible density of elephants, and what you end up with is a country that I personally rate as perhaps the best safari destination in all of Africa.
Tourist activity prices are generally and intentionally high throughout Botswana, and this is down to the country’s policy of attracting fewer tourists who pay more per person.
It sounds a bit unfair, but the benefits of not having crowds of vehicles at wildlife sightings outweigh the negatives for you and the animals. And besides, the quality of the lodges and tourism operators tends to be of an extremely high standard. Whether it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip or a repeat return; a vacation in Botswana is well worth the price.
Delta Safaris and Silence on the Salt Flats
The Okavango Delta is often cited as safari experts’ favourite destination – and on most of my trips there I’ve experienced incredible sightings: lions climbing trees (rare in these parts) and killing buffalo; multiple packs of wild dogs; relaxed leopards; elephants, giraffes, honey badgers and hyenas. The water makes for a scenic landscape and attracts plentiful wildlife.
Though the delta is Botswana’s most famous area, my personal favourite part of the country – one of my favourite landscapes anywhere – is the Makgadikgadi salt pan, just south of the delta. Here, there are a smattering of small camps and then just a huge expanse of what used to be Lake Makgadikgadi, a lake the size of Switzerland.