Expert Reviews of Eswatini (4 Reviews)

Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) is a tiny, landlocked monarchy almost entirely surrounded by South Africa, with only its northeastern corner touching Mozambique. Border formalities are pleasantly relaxed, and because the kingdom lies conveniently on the main overland route between Kruger National Park and KwaZulu-Natal, most visitors pass through as part of a South African holiday. Yet, while it’s easy to simply drive straight across the country, Eswatini rewards those who linger with far more to see and experience than first impressions suggest.

By the late 1950s, Eswatini was largely depleted of wildlife, but the turnaround since then has been remarkable, thanks primarily to the tireless efforts of conservation pioneer Ted Reilly. Today, several small but rewarding reserves fall under the Big Game Parks organisation. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, free of dangerous predators (aside from crocodiles), is perfect for unguided walking, horse riding and mountain biking. For a more

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traditional safari, Hlane Royal National Park and Mkhaya Game Reserve offer better game-viewing experiences. Hlane provides simple, family-friendly accommodation and excellent rhino sightings, while Mkhaya offers a more exclusive experience with a luxury lodge and guided drives and walks. Both reserves are strongholds for rhinos, and approaching these giants on foot is a genuine highlight. Elephants, giraffes and a good mix of antelope species are easily seen, and Hlane has lions – though they are kept in a separate enclosure.

While the Big Game Parks reserves offer reasonable wildlife viewing, they can feel slightly tamed. Malolotja Nature Reserve, by contrast, is wonderfully wild and pristine. Its dramatic mountain landscapes make it a top destination for hikers, whether you’re after an easy day walk or a demanding multiday trek.

The Malolotja Canopy Tour offers a different perspective on the reserve’s incredible topography. This thrilling ziplining adventure that sends you soaring above forested gorges and cascading streams, with sweeping views of the reserve’s rugged mountains, was one of the highlights of my last visit. Other adventure activities on offer in Eswatini are rafting, caving, abseiling and canoeing.

Despite its small size, what truly distinguishes Eswatini is a strong sense of tradition. To appreciate this, slow down: browse colourful markets, chat with locals and pick up some crafts. For a deeper cultural experience, try to time your visit with one of the kingdom’s vibrant annual festivals, the best known being the Umhlanga (Reed Dance) in August or September.

I’d wanted to visit the mysterious Kingdom of Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) for as long as I could remember, so I was delighted to cover a story on conservation in the country for BBC Earth magazine. Eswatini is home to many rare and fascinating creatures…but perhaps none so unique as 80-year-old conservation legend Ted Reilly.

Eswatini boasts 750km²/290mi² of protected parks (and another 800km²/309mi² of wildlife farms and conservancies) yet half a century ago it was a virtual wasteland, devoid of almost all its wildlife. Wildebeest had been declared vermin by the British colonial government and had died by the hundreds of thousands (along with almost everything else) at poisoned waterholes. With the support of the Swazi royal family, a dedicated young conservationist by the name of Ted Reilly turned the whole thing around, finally introducing viable populations of 22 large wild animal species – including lion, elephant, rhino,

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giraffe, buffalo, sable, hippo, tsessebe and eland.

As the second-smallest country on the African mainland (only Gambia is smaller), Eswatini is an easy country to visit. While it might lack the scale of Africa’s vast wilderness areas, it is a microcosm of the African bush and is easily underestimated: it boasts the Big Five along with most of Southern Africa’s iconic species; it’s home to 503 bird species (about the same as France…which is 30 times bigger); and, thanks to a tough no-tolerance anti-poaching strategy, it’s one of the best places in the world to get close to wild rhino (white and black).

Along with unforgettable landscapes and spectacular sightings, it provides a fascinating insight into African ecology for anyone looking for an out-of-the-ordinary safari experience.

Pint-sized Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) is unchartered safari territory for most Africa aficionados. Sandwiched between South Africa and Mozambique, just to the south of Kruger National Park, this tiny African monarchy offers an impressive array of wildlife, culture and safari adventure. It might not have the conservation areas and wildlife concentrations to challenge its more illustrious neighbours, but it makes up for any shortcomings with its uniqueness and variety of visitor experiences.

Whether on a rewarding Big Game Parks game drive, enjoying up-close sightings of rhino and elephant, zip lining in the forest, appreciating Swazi culture and tribal dancing, or exploring the kingdom on foot, bike or horseback, the Kingdom of Eswatini has a safari offering to suit all tastes and budgets. Despite its impressive diversity, Eswatini remains almost unknown to the wider safari community, making it a destination that you should endeavour to experience before the wider world discovers

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it.

The Swazi conservation pioneer, Big Game Parks, is the custodian of three of the nation’s finest safari offerings: Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Hlane Royal National Park and Mkhaya Game Reserve. Despite the rhino being one of the most endangered species on the planet, you will likely see an astonishing number of black and white rhino while on safari in Eswatini.

Eswatini is not just a rhino and wildlife destination – it also boasts rich cultural offerings. The annual Umhlanga festival is Eswatini’s biggest cultural event and is attended by the King and royal family. During this eight-day ceremony, young maidens cut reeds that they symbolically present to the Queen Mother. Many Swazis, dressed in traditional attire, partake in the local song and dance festivities.

The Kingdom of eSwatini is a little-known African safari gem, oozing safari intimacy and boasting unparalleled rhino-viewing opportunities.

Covering just over 17,000-sq-km (smaller than Kruger National Park), Eswatini is the smallest country in the southern hemisphere, and Africa’s last absolute monarchy. King Mswati III recently renamed Swaziland the Kingdom of Eswatini (‘place of the Swazi’) to mark 50 years of independence from British rule. It’s so little, I’ve driven across in less than a leisurely day, but there are plenty of things to do to keep you busy on a longer visit, from hiking in lush mountain landscapes to game-viewing in the parks and reserves. It’s also a good destination for adventurers, with an effective backpackers’ set-up and a number of activities on offer from caving to white-water rafting. The Swazi people are expert craft-makers, producing a wealth of high-quality African curios like pottery, baskets, traditional fabrics, soapstone carvings and beaded jewellery, and there are plenty of souvenir centres and shops to visit too.

Thanks to a handful of pioneering conservationists,

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there have been effective anti-poaching initiatives and substantial animal restocking, and Swaziland’s game parks are small but rewarding to explore. My top two big game parks are Hlane Royal National Park and Mkhaya Game Reserve (both excellent for elephant and rhino), but I’ve also enjoyed independent driving, as well as walking, horse-riding and cycling, at Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary and Mbuluzi Wildlife Reserve – neither has predatory game so there are opportunities to get out of a vehicle. I’ve always found Swaziland an accessible country to visit and the border crossings with South Africa are quick and easy. None of the varied parks and reserves is more than a two-hour drive away from each other, so it’s easy to visit a few in a relatively short time – ideal for first time safari-goers. Additionally, given that it’s hemmed in by KwaZulu-Natal to the south and west, Mpumalanga to the north, and Mozambique to the east, a visit here can easily be combined with numerous other attractions in the region, including Kruger.