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Write a User ReviewWildlife in the Desert
What makes Namibia so special though is how easy it is to take all this in on a self-drive, fully independent, safari that won’t break anyone’s bank account. Distances in Namibia might be long but the roads are generally in reasonable shape meaning a 4x4 is rarely needed for much of the country. It’s also a very safe country with crime against tourists very rare indeed even in the bigger towns (which frankly are still virtual villages). It’s true that you don’t get the sheer density of wildlife here that you might find in some other African countries, but the variety of species and relative lack of
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crowds make Namibia one of the best safari destinations in Africa. On one day you can be viewing a smelly, noisy colony of thousands of Southern Cape seals and on the next watching elephants amble out of the dry woodlands to a water hole. There are abandoned mining towns half-buried under sand dunes, a fascinating tribal culture and buffalo hiding in waterweed covered swamps.If you’re looking for that perfect ‘first-time’ Africa experience but one that still holds a sense of the unexpected then Namibia is unbeatable.
The Sheltering Desert
Namibia is four times the size of Britain, with a population of fewer than 3 million people. Most of it is desert. Some of its rivers do not flow for years. In some places, rain falls perhaps once a century. The result is a land more like Mars than our own blue planet, but with a life of its own. In Damaraland you can track desert-dwelling elephants and rare black rhinos. In Etosha National Park you can find all the Big Five, and you’ll never get closer to cheetahs than you can at Okonjima. But in Namibia it is the land itself that grabs the eye. At Sossusvlei you’ll marvel at brick-red dunes as high as the Sussex Downs. On the Skeleton Coast you’ll stroll through the sea fog on beaches strewn with shipwrecks, whalebones and
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brown hyena tracks. And in the burnt-out badlands and stony valleys of the Namib-Naukluft National Park you’ll find the weird welwitschia, one of the world’s oldest, most primitive plants. Some are said to have been growing there for 1,500 years. Fly-in safaris are the way to go, providing sensational views and allowing you to reach the most inaccessible locations. Or drive yourself. Namibia has miles of good roads and very little traffic.On Safari in Namibia
Even on a wildlife safari it sometimes seems as though spotting animals is just
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a bonus: the real privilege is immersing yourself in the ancient fabric of this glorious landscape. That said, there are plenty of possibilities for those who, in particular, get their kicks from seeing herd animals such as antelope, and, of course, elephants whose booming population makes them a relatively easy spot. It doesn’t mean you won’t catch the rest of the Big Five – it’s one of the best places in southern Africa to see black rhino, lions are a chance, where there is water there are sometimes herds of buffalo, and leopards are difficult to spot but never far away. And as for elephants – just head for the Zambezi Region...Natural Wonders of Namibia
But if wildlife is your passion, head to Etosha, particularly in the dry season when all sizes of animals from antelope to elephants head to the shimmering Etosha Pan followed closely by hungry predators – at 5000 sq km it covers almost a quarter of the entire national park. For a different perspective of Namibia’s wildlife,
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head to the Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi Strip), that odd streak of land jutting out into Zambia, Angola and Botswana, which is dominated by huge rivers and lush floodplains. The wildlife isn’t as prolific as in Etosha but there are far fewer tourists and the change of scenery into a watery wonderland is stunning.If you enjoy walking, the Fish River Canyon and surrounding farmlands offer glorious but challenging trekking through one of the world’s most dramatic gorges – with nothing around you for miles and miles other than the spectacular scenery, the region offers wild camping in its truest sense. Be prepared for the heat and dryness here – at one point after a long day’s walk, we threw ourselves fully clothed into the river, desperate to cool down. The Naukluft mountains offer gentler day walks or another tough 8-day trek, the Naukluft Hiking Trail, which I haven’t yet summoned up the courage to attempt.
With all these natural wonders, it’s easy to overlook Windhoek, Namibia’s capital city, which is a shame because its center is a pleasant, pretty area in which to wander. A township tour of Katutura helps to unravel the history of this vast yet sparsely populated country, which only achieved independence in 1990, and provides an insight into the lives of the locals here.
Land of Open Spaces
For me, if any one landscape evokes Namibia as a whole, it is majestic Sossusvlei, where a series of normally dry pans, lined with spectral dead trees, shimmers below the rippled apricot dunes of the incomprehensibly large Namib-Naukluft National Park. Elsewhere, there is the gaping Fish River Canyon, one of the world’s largest ravines, as well as the quaint and fabulously isolated Germanic seaside resort towns of Swakopmund and Lüderitz, and the superlative prehistoric
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rock art of the Brandberg and Twyfelfontein regions.Although Namibia is more about spectacular desert scenery – truly a photographer’s dream – than a conventional safari experience, it does offer some great wildlife viewing in places. Tracking the desert-adapted elephants and black rhinos of Damaraland is an unforgettable adventure, as is visiting the region’s largest colony of Cape fur seals at Cape Cross, in the aptly named Skeleton Coast National Park. Best of all, however, is the vast Etosha National Park, named after a vast seasonal pan that attracts game concentrations that compare favourable with any African reserve.
Dunes, Deserts and Scenic Splendour
The world-renowned red dunes of Sossusvlei are probably the most photographed and recognisable landscape in all of Africa. The arid Kunene region with its desert-adapted elephants, rhinos and lions makes for an unrivalled safari experience, especially when combined with the cultural experience of interacting with the fiercely traditional Himba villagers in
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this remote region.Etosha, boasting the Big 5 and all of Africa’s big cats, is undoubtedly Namibia’s premier park and top wildlife-viewing area, while Khaudum is wild and full of cantankerous elephants. Jutting out east towards the Zambezi, the Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi Strip) gives Namibia its own little slice of lush, watery wilderness and provides an excellent opportunity for safari aficionados to combine little-known wetland parks like Nkasa Rupara with the country’s jaw-dropping desert landscapes and the wildlife abundance of arid Etosha.
If that’s not enough to entice you to visit, Namibia has excellent tourist infrastructure, plenty of self-drive safari options, and there is no malaria outside of the Zambezi region. These factors combine to make Namibia quite likely the most affordable and family-friendly safari destination on the continent. No matter which season you choose to visit in, or which regions of this sparsely populated country you choose to visit, Namibia is a place of solitude, magnificent terrain, wide-open spaces and deafening silence that inevitably leaves safari-goers speechless at its incredible wealth and diversity of natural beauty.
An Unrivalled Canvas for Your Photos
Namibia is oft-overlooked as a safari spot, but this largely desert-like country harbours some striking animal encounters. The sandy landscape of Etosha National Park provides an unusual backdrop to your animal images, setting them instantly apart from photos with more familiar greenery and savannah settings. The often arid park's many waterholes are the perfect place to picnic, offering sightings of varied species at the same time. For me though, a trip around Namibia is as much about the landscape as the animals that inhabit it. Sand plays a large part in the set design, be it the white sand of the Skeleton Coast or the shifting russet-coloured dunes of striking Sossusvlei. Further south, there's the Fish River Canyon, a sight that will keep you staring for hours, while the crashing waves of the icy Atlantic seem to provide some refreshment in this scorched but beautiful land.
So Many Different Types of Desert!
From a safari point of view, Etosha is Namibia’s jewel in the crown, and if you go in the dry season there is a non-stop procession of game at the water holes. Etosha is one of the best places in all of Africa to see black rhino. Other highlights in Namibia include the spectacular Fish River Canyon, the quirky Germanic town of Swakopmund, the misty coast of shipwrecks, the deserted ghost town of Kolmanskop, and my favourite place of all, Damaraland in the far north, with its desert elephants and Himba people.
And for something completely different, there is the Zambezi Region (formerly Caprivi Strip) in the north
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west, which is lush green with a little-visited cluster of game reserves.Namibia is a safe, easy country to travel around and is well geared for tourism. Just don’t underestimate the distances, how far apart petrol and water supplies are, and always treat the gravel roads with respect.
Best of all, enjoy the wide, empty spaces, spectacular scenery, starry skies and silence. Namibia is a landscape photographer’s dream and will draw you back for a return visit.