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Write a User ReviewNorthern wilderness
North Luangwa is South Luangwa’s remote and reclusive big sister. The terrain and wildlife are very similar, but there are only a handful of lodges, few roads and visitor numbers are minimal. Consequently this park offers a real wilderness experience for the safari purist – and I loved it. Most activities take place on foot, setting out with guide and armed scout along the Mwaleshi River or down to the Luangwa itself. Game is not as plentiful or as approachable as in South Luangwa, which reflects a gradual recovery from heavy poaching in the past. However, sightings are all the more special as a result.
During my four-day stay we tracked – and found – lions on foot three times, and on my final night I witnessed hyenas pulling down a puku in the river right in front of my chalet. What’s more, we did not encounter one other person or vehicle during my whole stay. Local wildlife specialities include a good population of Cookson’s wildebeest – endemic to the Luangwa Valley – and black rhinos have been re-introduced, inside an intensive protection zone.
Footsteps across the Mwaleshi
Compared to South Luangwa, the North Park is only half the size and attracts very few visitors to what is a truly pristine wilderness. There are only a handful modest camps offering almost exclusively walking safaris. All three are situated in the roadless southern wilderness area on the banks of the Mwaleshi, a blissfully clear and croc-free river. Among them is Kutandala, my all-time favourite bushcamp, run by Rod Tether who guides, and Guz, his wife, who cooks sumptuous meals. One memorable ritual here is to enjoy sundowners while sitting in the river with bat hawks zooming overhead.
The game is recovering well after the poaching holocaust of the 1980s and even black rhino have been re-introduced, although at present they are still confined within a so-called intensive protection zone. But all the rest of the Big Five are here, with lions very much in evidence, and the absence of giraffes is made up for by good numbers of eland, puku and Cookson’s wildebeest.
Taking a Walk on the Wild Side
This is Zambia as it should be - remote, wild and difficult to access. There’s a similar range of animals as South Luangwa, with all Big 5 accounted for, although spotting them can be tricky as the park is lush and overgrown. Walking safaris are the prime activity and wandering around is your best opportunity, in Zambia, to combine premium wildlife watching and a remote, wild location.
There are enormous buffalo herds (don’t get too close), and plenty of predators to keep them in line such as hyenas and lions. Your best off flying straight into one of the camps as entry by 4WD is hazardous and not possible when the Wet season drags on - I got caught out by late rains the last time I tried to drive in.
Self-driving in North Luangwa
The Frankfurt Zoological Society does great conservation work here, including the reintroduction of black rhino. This makes North Luangwa the only fully fledged Big Five destination in Zambia. More recently (in 2021) it opened several budget-friendly community camps as well as a new game-viewing circuit. This puts North Luangwa on the map for self-drive visitors and we were keen to check it out. We saw a fair amount of wildlife including several elephants, spotted hyenas on a kill, greater kudus and
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Cookson’s wildebeest. We also spent about an hour watching a large pack of wild dogs feeding on a kill. Our verdict: although still mainly set aside for walking safaris, North Luangwa is now a worthwhile, adventurous destination for self-drive travelers too.Come face to face with big game in a remote wilderness
If you're looking for a remote wilderness experience and close up encounters with big game you'll find them here. North Luangwa is only open for a few months a year and has no permanent accommodation - only a limited number of temporary camps operate here.
A visit to the park is all about low impact bush camping and walking safaris; and with access only possible through a few select operators; there are only a handful of visitors in the park at any one time.
The park’s ecosystem is similar to that of its neighbour, South Luangwa, with a large lion population, leopard, elephant, endemic Cookson’s wildebeest, and huge herds of buffalo. An encounter with the latter whilst out on foot makes for a heart pumping but unforgettable experience.
A Zambian Wilderness Rediscovered
Remote North Luangwa scores full marks for its wilderness value and wild vibe. It feels untouched and there is something wrong if you are not overwhelmed by the park’s natural beauty and rapidly rebounding wildlife. From the western bank of the Luangwa River to the top of the dramatic Muchinga Escarpment, which rises over 1,000 meters from the valley floor, the diversity of habitat types and trees is mind-blowing. In the midst of this area the rhino intensive protection zone is home to Zambia’s only black rhino population.
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We were lucky enough during our visit to see a few of Zambia’s rare rhinos, along with large numbers of elephant, buffalo, hippo and general game, as well as lion and leopard.North Luangwa is a very special place – perfect for die-hard African safari addicts.