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Changuu (Prison) Island – Our Expert’s Trip Report

Zanzibar Tours Tanzania
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Changuu is one of several small islands that stud the shallow bay off Zanzibar’s historic Stone Town. Named for a type of edible fish, Changuu is also sometimes called Prison Island, a name that dates back
Read more to colonial times, when it served as a quarantine center. Today, this pretty island is a popular destination for boat trips from Stone Town, thanks to its sanctuary, well-preserved 19th-century buildings, sandy beach and potential for offshore snorkeling. Most tours to Changuu Island include a seafood barbecue at Nakupenda Beach.
  1. 1
    Meet Your Captain at Stone Town’s Shangani Beach

    Boats at Shangani Beach
    Excursion boats at Shangani Beach
    Boat trips to Changuu Island usually leave from Shangani Beach in the heart of Stone Town. This landmark beach lies within walking distance of most of the old town’s hotels, but if you’re staying at a
    Read more resort elsewhere on Zanzibar, your package should include a road transfer there.After arriving at Shangani Beach, you’ll be introduced to your captain and crew. Those who plan to go snorkeling will also be given the opportunity to fit flippers and a mask. While preparations are underway, it’s fun to observe the bustle of activity on this chaotic working beach, set against a backdrop of 19th-century waterfront buildings that have mostly been converted to hotels.
  2. 2
    Cross From Stone Town to Changuu Island in a Motorized Dhow

    Boat approaching Changuu Island
    Boat approaching Changuu Island
    You’ll most likely cross to Changuu Island in a traditional wooden fitted with a motor for speed and a canopy to protect against the tropical sun. On the way, you’ll enjoy fabulous views back toward
    Read more the northwest-facing Forodhani Waterfront and the neighboring harbor, and you might pass a few . You should also look out for dolphins, though marine wildlife is increasingly scarce this close to Stone Town. After roughly 30 minutes, the boat will anchor on the southeast of Changuu Island, where a clean, sandy spit is lapped by calm turquoise waters.
  3. 3
    Meet the Ancient Residents of Changuu’s Tortoise Sanctuary

    Visitor interacting with Aldabra giant tortoises
    Visitor feeding Aldabra giant tortoises
    Changuu Island is famed for its population of 200-odd . Unlike the marine turtles that inhabit the surrounding ocean, these land dwellers are not to Zanzibar. They descend from four individuals translocated from
    Read more the Seychelles during the British colonial era. For more than a century after their arrival, the tortoises roamed freely around the island. Today, they are kept safe inside a fenced sanctuary and have been individually fitted with microchips to discourage poaching.Aldabra giant tortoises are extraordinary creatures. They weigh up to 250kg/550lb and have been known to live for 180 years. Indeed, the oldest resident on Changuu is said to be more than 120 years old. Endearingly placid, the tortoises take the Zanzibari catchphrase ‘pole pole’ (slowly slowly) to its sluggish extreme, and enjoy being fed leaves. This makes for great photo opportunities, but do resist the temptation to touch them or pose sitting on their backs – this stresses them and can cause damage to their shells and weak leg muscles.
  4. 4
    Visit the Building Behind Changuu’s Alternative Name

    Tourist visiting the old prison buildings
    The old prison building
    Changuu is often called Prison Island. Some say this name originated in the 1860s, when the island was owned by an Arab trader who used it to detain newly arrived captives before they were sold at
    Read more Stone Town’s infamous slave market. More likely, however, the name dates from the early 1890s, when a British administrator on Zanzibar bought the island with the intention of using it as a prison for violent criminals and political activists.The prison building on Changuu was completed in 1894 but never actually used for its intended purpose. Instead, an outbreak of bubonic plague led to it being repurposed as a quarantine center for freshly arrived sailors from North Africa and Asia. Comprising a dozen cells built around a tall central courtyard, the sturdy old prison building has been fully restored. It now doubles as a museum and a small café and bar.
  5. 5
    Return to Stone Town via Nakupenda Beach

    Nakupenda Beach is a sandbank in turquoise waters
    Nakupenda Beach
    Tides permitting, it is customary for tours to Changuu Island to sail 6km/4mi south to a narrow, deserted sandbar known as Nakupenda (a name meaning ‘I love you’). Here, you can snorkel and swim in
    Read more clear shallow water, or chill on silky soft sand with a cold beer, while your crew prepares a delicious fresh seafood barbecue.After a couple of hours on Nakupenda, and an abundance of sun, salt water and seafood, you’ll sail back to Stone Town. The approach from Nakupenda offers great views toward the southwest-facing Shangani Waterfront, which is lined with some of Stone Town’s most important historical buildings. By the time you land at Shangani Beach, you’ll probably be ready to head back to your accommodations. If you are staying in the area, you can wander back to your hotel on foot or catch a . For those staying elsewhere, a road transfer back to your beach resort should be included in the package.

How To Get to Changuu Island

People leaving on a daytrip by boat
Boarding a boat to Changuu Island
Changuu Island can only be visited by boat. The most affordable option is to join one of several group tours that leave from Stone Town daily. These can be booked through any tour operator, resort or
Read more hotel.Tours to Changuu usually leave between 9 AM and 9:30 AM and follow a similar itinerary, which means that dozens of boats might arrive at the same place at roughly the same time. For this reason, you could consider booking a private boat and leaving earlier or later in the day. For planning purposes, each of the boat crossings – Stone Town to Changuu, Changuu to Nakupenda, and Nakupenda to Stone Town – takes about 30 minutes.

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Changuu Island Trips