Zanzibar’s Forodhani Gardens | Our Expert’s Trip Report

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Food stall at Forodhani Gardens Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Food stall at the Forodhani Gardens — Food stall at Forodhani Gardens Zanzibar Island, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Traditional Swahili dhow at sunset Shangani Beach, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Historical cannons at Forodhani Gardens — Forodhani Gardens Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Coconut for drinking — Drinking coconut for sale Zanzibar Island, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Forodhani Gardens, Stone Town — Food vendor at Forodhani Gardens Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Women buying food at Forodhani Gardens — People buying food at Forodhani Gardens Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Sugar cane juice stall at Forodhani Gardens — Sugarcane juice stall at Forodhani Gardens Zanzibar Stone Town, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Shangani Beach at sunset Shangani Beach, Tanzania. Photo by Ariadne van Zandbergen. © All rights reserved

Forodhani Gardens is a delightful spot. Occupying a prime position on Stone Town’s historic waterfront, this oasis of greenery is a fun place to chill out and watch the passing parade. Joggers loop around its footpaths

in the pre-breakfast cool, while daytime visitors can enjoy views to a row of historic seafront buildings and the old harbor. The best time to visit Forodhani, however, is toward dusk, when it is perfectly oriented to enjoy the sunset over the ocean. It also hosts a legendary night market serving delicious fresh seafood.

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History of Forodhani Gardens

The British colonial administration laid out Forodhani Gardens from 1935 to 1936 to mark the silver jubilees of Sultan Khalifa II and King George V (whose reigns, coincidentally, both started in 1911). Also known as Jubilee

Gardens, this shady seafront park stands opposite the Old Customs House on reclaimed land that formerly served as a landing beach for . Indeed, the name Forodhani derives from the word ‘forodha’, which means ‘customs’ or ‘harbor’. The park became very rundown after the , but it was restored to its former glory by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture from 2008 to 2009.

Forodhani Gardens by Day

Planted with coconut palms and other tropical trees, Forodhani Gardens is an agreeably shady spot to wander around or settle into for an hour or two. There are plenty of benches and simple food kiosks where

you can rest your legs, catch a sea breeze, enjoy a chilled soft drink, and watch the world go by. Historic landmarks include a bandstand built in 1936 to commemorate the silver jubilee of Sultan Khalifa II, an Arabesque arch erected for Princess Margaret’s visit in 1956, and a sea-facing battery of 18th-century cannons.Forodhani Gardens is a popular spot with locals. At high tide, young Zanzibari kids dive gleefully into the ocean from the seawall, while couples and friends stroll past, deep in conversation. There are views west across to Stone Town’s historical harbor, where traditional wooden share the waves with modern container ships and ferries. The eastern end of the gardens merges into sandy Shangani Beach.

Historic Buildings Opposite Forodhani Gardens

The Old Fort seen from Forodhani Gardens

Forodhani Gardens offers a view across Mizingani Road to a row of Stone Town’s most iconic architectural landmarks. Best known is the imposing Old Fort, an early 17th-century Omani construction that incorporates the walls of an

even older Portuguese church. To the right of the fort (as viewed from the gardens) is an unusual building run through by a road tunnel. Originally built as a club for British residents in the late 19th century, this later served as a school and an orphanage.Immediately left of the Old Fort, the House of Wonders – a palace built for Sultan Barghash in 1883 – is currently obscured by scaffolding following a partial collapse. Once restoration work is complete, it should once again stand out for its eye-catching clock tower and handsome facade of ornate tiered balconies. Next door, the People’s Palace also dates to the late 19th century. A short distance past this you’ll see the semi-derelict Grand Hotel, which opened its doors to guests in the 1880s, and the Old Customs House, constructed in 1865, for which Forodhani Gardens is named.

Sundowners & the Nighttime Food Market

Food stall at Forodhani Gardens at night

Forodhani Gardens is liveliest in the evenings, as the heat of the day subsides and the sun sets – often magnificently – over the Indian Ocean. If you feel like a drink, a good option

is the double-story Cape Town Fish Market, which stands on a stilted pier extending out from the gardens’ seawall, and has a great wine and cocktail menu. It is around this time too that Forodhani transforms into a lively and welcoming nighttime food market catering to locals and visitors alike.Fresh seafood is the specialty. Try whole grilled changuu (a type of ), skewered prawns, squid or octopus, or a tasty but fiddly crab dish. Potato chips and rice are on offer, but local favorites include (charcoal-grilled plantain) and (a flatbread).Other options include so-called , which consists of crisp-fried dough filled with minced meat, eggs or seafood (but generally not cheese), or a starchy and filling soup called . No alcohol is served in this public space, but you can wash your meal down with fresh coconut water or sugarcane juice.

How To Get to Forodhani Gardens

Forodhani Gardens could scarcely have a more central location. It stands on the main Stone Town waterfront, directly opposite the Old Fort, and is bordered by Shangani Beach. Situated within 5 minutes’ walk of most of

Stone Town’s best-known hotels and restaurants, it is easily reached on foot, by day or in the evening. Alternatively, since it stands alongside a main road, you can ask your hotel to arrange a taxi there and back.

Nearby Attractions

The Anglican Cathedral at the Old Slave Market

The central location of Forodhani Gardens means it lies within easy walking distance of most points of interest in Stone Town and is readily visited in combination with them. The Old Fort and Shangani Beach are

actually within sight of Forodhani Gardens, while the Freddie Mercury Museum and St Joseph’s Cathedral aren’t much farther away. It is more of a walk (about 700m/2,300ft through a confusing maze of alleys) to the Old Slave Market and Anglican Cathedral. Boat excursions to Changuu (Prison) Island leave from Shangani Beach, right alongside Forodhani Gardens.

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