Average Expert Rating
Rating Breakdown
Write a User ReviewUnadulterated Drama
When 1.5 million wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebra make their way north from Tanzania’s Serengeti and into Kenya’s Masai Mara, they must cross rivers, all of which harbor monster-sized crocodiles. It’s a spectacle I have witnessed numerous times, but it always leaves me feeling a little conflicted.
From one perspective, I am privileged to be an onlooker at one of the most iconic wildlife events the world has ever known. But on the other hand, it can be brutal. Not only do many of the wildebeest end up being converted into crocodile poo, they also have a tendency to crush and injure one another in the frenetic stampede to get across to the other side. It’s pure drama: violent, magnificent, heart-wrenching, and never to be forgotten.
However, the Mara is so much more than just the mayhem of the crossings. The big five are generally a guarantee (with the exception of rhinos, which are scarce), elephants are two a penny, and the sight of rolling
You’ll also likely see lots of tourists and minibus safari cars (especially around predator sightings), but for a price, it’s possible to escape the maddening crowds by staying in one of the many luxury lodges situated in private conservancies bordering the main park.
From one perspective, I am privileged to be an onlooker at one of the most iconic wildlife events the world has ever known. But on the other hand, it can be brutal. Not only do many of the wildebeest end up being converted into crocodile poo, they also have a tendency to crush and injure one another in the frenetic stampede to get across to the other side. It’s pure drama: violent, magnificent, heart-wrenching, and never to be forgotten.
However, the Mara is so much more than just the mayhem of the crossings. The big five are generally a guarantee (with the exception of rhinos, which are scarce), elephants are two a penny, and the sight of rolling
Read more
plains literally festooned in millions of wildebeest can sometimes overload the senses. Expect to see, well, pretty much everything.You’ll also likely see lots of tourists and minibus safari cars (especially around predator sightings), but for a price, it’s possible to escape the maddening crowds by staying in one of the many luxury lodges situated in private conservancies bordering the main park.
Avoid the Masses
The Masai Mara is undoubtedly one of the most outstanding safari destinations in all of Africa. It has classic rolling savannahs, abundant big cats and hosts the greatest show on Earth: the wildebeest migration. But sadly, mass tourism is at risk of spoiling the national reserve, compounded by the unacceptable behaviour of a minority of guides. It is very difficult to have a wilderness experience when other vehicles are racing towards you to see what you have spotted. Vehicles jostle around predators and we have witnessed cheetahs being disturbed when they are trying to hunt. There can be hundreds of vehicles lined up on the riverbanks during the migration waiting for the wildebeest to cross – something the wildlife documentaries do not show.
Due to mounting criticism and negative publicity, there does seem to be an increasing effort by key Mara stakeholders to improve the management of the park. When we visited the national reserve most recently, there appeared to be more
Due to mounting criticism and negative publicity, there does seem to be an increasing effort by key Mara stakeholders to improve the management of the park. When we visited the national reserve most recently, there appeared to be more
Read more
rangers monitoring tourist vehicles at the wildebeest crossings. However, having said that, if you want to go to the Masai Mara, consider travelling during low season and/or staying at one of the private conservancies that border the national reserve. These are owned by the local Maasai communities and have good populations of wildlife, but far fewer lodges and tourist vehicles.Big Cat Country Par Excellence
Where else can you be following a lioness and her three cubs towards their hideout and at the same instant see a pair of cheetahs sitting high on their termite hill lookout? The Masai Mara has everything within an incredibly short distance – it has been called the prime wildlife real estate on earth, and I think that is not unreasonable. We even had the classic Mara scenario of having a cheetah use our Landrover roof as a lookout and I saw a full-scale battle here over a kill between a pride of lions and a group of about 30 hyenas! I have visited the Mara on several occasions (both at camps inside the park and at concessions on Maasai land on the fringes – where walking safaris and ‘controlled’ night-drives are possible). I have never been lucky enough to coincide my visit with the migration, however (although I did see it in the neighbouring Serengeti). One day I will be back!
Where Culture Meets Nature
My first safari experience was a tough act to follow. By day we spotted lions sheltering in emerald-green foliage and spent hours photographing a leopard napping next to the kill it had hoisted into a tree. By night, we were treated to a little Masai culture, with folklore tales and after-dinner dance performances. The Masai Mara is deservedly popular, with its range of accommodation to suit all budgets, its elegant and striking Masai people who sometimes work as guides and its plethora of animals that includes the Big Five and practically every other species you're likely to have on your checklist.
Superb Wildlife, but Way Too Many People
Known for its prolific big cats and the dramatic great migration river crossings, the Masai Mara is probably one of the most famous wildlife destinations on the planet – and it shows. The national reserve is suffering a bad case of overtourism, with far too many vehicles hemming in the wildlife at any given sighting. There are some camps that have made it their policy to avoid the crowds – these places usually employ the best guides who can find their own sightings without relying on the radio that’s used to share wildlife findings. Do your research before booking, as a guide can make or break your stay in the Mara. Alternatively, the surrounding Mara conservancies, which are private, offer the best experience. Within the national reserve, Enaidura Camp is good, and I would also recommend the camps run by Asilia in the Naboisho Conservancy.
A Timeless Safari Experience With a Full Complement of African Animals
Kenya’s best-known reserve, it’s everything you’d expect of an African wilderness area; rolling plains, rocky outcrops, and deep green winding rivers full of hippos and crocs. Its animal diversity is one of the greatest in East Africa and all of the Big 5 is easily found. However I find it can at times get overrun with tourist pop-up minibuses, and the bewildering amount of lodges and camps means that its ‘wildness’ may feel sanitised and the experience can be ‘package-holiday’ like. Nevertheless, you can’t beat the drama of the Mara – a massive migratory herd of wildebeest and their zebra friends marching across the plains, a cheetah making a mad dash through the grassland, a group of hyena squabbling over a carcass, or a hungry croc dramatically rising from the waters in the Mara River. Its popularity and appeal is also because the Mara offers a varied choice of safari options across most budgets. For a start you can either get there by air or road, and accommodation
Read more
ranges from large family-friendly lodges in the reserve, super-luxurious and intimate camps in one of the conservancies or group ranches, to budget banda/tented accommodation outside Talek, Sekenani and Ololaimutiek gates. But whatever your safari arrangements are for the Masai Mara, you can be sure of plenty of dazzling animal action.Life and Death in the Masai Mara
The Masai Mara is a realm of constant drama. I can hardly recall any game drives here without witnessing something thrilling unfold before my eyes. Most captivating wildlife encounters involve predator activity, and the Mara boasts an abundance of many carnivores, but big cats especially. While certain areas of the reserve experience heavy tourist traffic, which can diminish the experience, it also means that predators are accustomed to vehicles, allowing for incredible opportunities to observe and photograph their natural behaviors.
I once had a leopard use my vehicle as cover while stalking its prey, and I’ve seen cheetahs, typically perched atop termite mounds to scan the horizon for gazelles, opting to sit on a car bonnet instead. Lions frequently engage in hunts or are found feasting on their kills, which inevitably attract a host of scavengers. Hyenas and vultures are usually the first to arrive on the scene, with jackals never far behind. This dramatic interplay of
I once had a leopard use my vehicle as cover while stalking its prey, and I’ve seen cheetahs, typically perched atop termite mounds to scan the horizon for gazelles, opting to sit on a car bonnet instead. Lions frequently engage in hunts or are found feasting on their kills, which inevitably attract a host of scavengers. Hyenas and vultures are usually the first to arrive on the scene, with jackals never far behind. This dramatic interplay of
Read more
life and death occurs year-round, but the most spectacular events take place from July to October, when the wildebeest migration arrives from the Serengeti. During this time, predators – especially opportunistic lions – are even more prevalent, and Nile crocodiles seize their chance during the famous river crossings. The Masai Mara is undeniably a place to appreciate the relentless cycle of nature.Safari on Speed
Kenya’s most famous and most-visited reserve was my first taste of African safari and in terms of game it was a great introduction. I saw the entire Big 5 on our first game drive and after a few days we’d seen so many lions I was beginning to get complacent. I wasn’t fortunate enough to see the Great Migration crossing the Mara River, but there were vast herds of wildebeest all over the place, hence, of course, the presence of so many big cats.
The open plains certainly lend to the ease of game viewing, whilst the acacias and koppies complete the archetypal image of safari, but less alluring are the crowds. I got increasingly frustrated by the swift descent of countless vehicles on any good sighting, all jostling and competing for the best spot.
Nevertheless, Masai Mara remains a great destination for safari virgins and those on a stricter budget. There are plenty of cheap and good camps as well as some of the more luxury offerings.
Quintessential Kenyan Safari Destination, Whatever the Season
Grasslands dotted with graceful acacias, hundreds of big cats and enough natural drama to keep wildlife documentary filmmakers busy year after year – the Masai Mara has it all. It also has some highly alluring and charismatic places to stay, perfect for a classic guided or self-drive safari.
If you only have the chance to visit the Masai Mara once, then it’s well worth visiting during migration season – the sight and sound of hundreds of wildebeest and zebra on the move and of predators weighing up their chances is something you’ll never forget. However, this is a park that delivers superb wildlife watching at any time of year. There’s enough grass to support huge numbers of grazing animals and their predators.
The Masai Mara will always be an extremely special place to me, as it was here that I had my first ever taste of a “proper” safari – and highly enjoyable it was, too.
The Legendary Masai Mara
Legendary Masai Mara is the most visited wildlife reserve in Kenya and it’s easy to see why. This 1,510 square km park supports a huge and diverse animal population and is one of the only places in the world where it is still possible to see vast herds of grazing animals.
Attracted by the abundant wildebeest, antelope, buffalo and zebra are the predators. There are more lions here than anywhere else in the country, and leopard, cheetah, jackal and hyena also wander the grasslands. Far-reaching views across open plains ensure that wildlife is almost never out of sight and it’s not unusual to see a dozen different species at the same time – all good news for Big Five enthusiasts!
If at all possible, visit around August or September for the great migration. On my most recent visit we watched swarms of wildebeest thunder across the river on their way to greener pastures, with a few unfortunate souls trampled under foot, or picked off by a predator along the way
Staggering wildlife viewing does come at a price and it’s not uncommon to see hordes of vehicles surrounding a pride of lions, but if you (or your guide) look hard enough it’s possible to find your own little piece of wilderness.
Attracted by the abundant wildebeest, antelope, buffalo and zebra are the predators. There are more lions here than anywhere else in the country, and leopard, cheetah, jackal and hyena also wander the grasslands. Far-reaching views across open plains ensure that wildlife is almost never out of sight and it’s not unusual to see a dozen different species at the same time – all good news for Big Five enthusiasts!
If at all possible, visit around August or September for the great migration. On my most recent visit we watched swarms of wildebeest thunder across the river on their way to greener pastures, with a few unfortunate souls trampled under foot, or picked off by a predator along the way
Read more
– an unforgettable experience.Staggering wildlife viewing does come at a price and it’s not uncommon to see hordes of vehicles surrounding a pride of lions, but if you (or your guide) look hard enough it’s possible to find your own little piece of wilderness.
‘Big Cat Diary’ Made Flesh
The Masai Mara is where the BBC’s ‘Big Cat Diary’ was filmed, and unsurprisingly it ranks as one of the finest reserves anywhere in Africa for big cat sightings. Above all, I associate it with lions: I’ve often encountered four or five prides in the space of a day here, and it is one of the few places where I’ve regularly seen prides of 20 or more individuals, and enjoyed the spectacle of these heavyweight cats mating. I’ve also yet to go more than a couple of days in the Mara without seeing leopard or cheetah, while other predators, notably jackals and hyenas, are also common. Other great things about the Mara include the spectacular wildebeest migration, which usually crosses into the reserve from Tanzania from July or August to October, the opportunity to see wildlife from a hot-air balloon, and the scenery in the westerly ‘Mara Triangle’, which lies below the Oloololo Escarpment (part of the Rift Valley Wall). It is worth noting that parts of the Mara can become very
Read more
crowded, especially during the migration season, so I always try to stick to the less crowded western part of the reserve, or – better still – one of the restricted-access private Maasai conservancies that border it.Migration Madness in the Mara
As neighbour to Tanzania’s Serengeti, the obvious attraction of the Mara is the chaotic migration of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest and zebra during July/August and then in October as they follow the scent of greener pastures. I was there in early August, with the wildebeest swarming like ants across the savanna, and was lucky enough to see frenetic river crossings as nervous wildebeest and zebra sensed crocodiles hiding in the shadows waiting silently to grab the bold or the vulnerable. Their arrival signifies a feeding frenzy for predators too and we frequently saw whole prides of lions, cubs included, walking slowly with swollen bellies, licking their bloodstained faces after the kill.
But there’s much more to the Mara than the migration. Its sweeping plains are home to masses of animals that include the Big Five, although rhino are quite difficult to find, and its birdlife is tremendous. Unsurprisingly, it attracts masses of tourists too, catering for all budgets,
Another tip for avoiding the crowds is to stay in one of the conservancies bordering the park. These are owned by local Maasai who benefit from leasing the land to just a few lodge owners. It’s a complete win-win situation – with only a handful of lodges on each conservancy, visitors get a great place to stay with few other tourists; the wildlife has returned to what was once deserted land due to overgrazing by cattle; and the Maasai get a welcome and not insubstantial income. I stayed at Naboisho Conservancy and was blown away by the amount of game on the plains.
But there’s much more to the Mara than the migration. Its sweeping plains are home to masses of animals that include the Big Five, although rhino are quite difficult to find, and its birdlife is tremendous. Unsurprisingly, it attracts masses of tourists too, catering for all budgets,
Read more
so if you want to avoid the crowds, steer clear of the high season.Another tip for avoiding the crowds is to stay in one of the conservancies bordering the park. These are owned by local Maasai who benefit from leasing the land to just a few lodge owners. It’s a complete win-win situation – with only a handful of lodges on each conservancy, visitors get a great place to stay with few other tourists; the wildlife has returned to what was once deserted land due to overgrazing by cattle; and the Maasai get a welcome and not insubstantial income. I stayed at Naboisho Conservancy and was blown away by the amount of game on the plains.
A Wildlife Utopia Brings Out the Worst in Tourism
Famed the world over for its magnificent wildlife, and site of the annual Great Migration, I had been looking forward for a long time to a safari in the Masai Mara. Massive numbers of grazers and browsers here support a huge population of predators and most visitors will have a wildlife sighting here that leaves them squealing in delight.
The magnificent landscape did not disappoint – rolling grasslands and open savannah on an epic scale. Afternoon thunderstorms rolled over the Mara horizon and over the savannah when I was there in June – the light constantly dueled with the shadows as murky clouds covered pale blue skies.
Doing a safari here, however, is a challenge. Safari company vehicles en masse illegally cross the landscape (off the official tracks) and race to the next big sighting (a big cat or rhino), and then surround the distressed animal.
The safety and wellbeing of the animals has been reduced to a thoughtless trade-off in which the
My advice is to talk to your driver/guide before entry into the reserve and make sure they are aware that you want no part of this behavior. That is the best way to experience the magnificent wildlife of this very special place, just cruising quietly through the grassy savannah – and who knows what you’ll come across and have all to yourself instead.
The magnificent landscape did not disappoint – rolling grasslands and open savannah on an epic scale. Afternoon thunderstorms rolled over the Mara horizon and over the savannah when I was there in June – the light constantly dueled with the shadows as murky clouds covered pale blue skies.
Doing a safari here, however, is a challenge. Safari company vehicles en masse illegally cross the landscape (off the official tracks) and race to the next big sighting (a big cat or rhino), and then surround the distressed animal.
The safety and wellbeing of the animals has been reduced to a thoughtless trade-off in which the
Read more
only thing that matters is getting the client into the best position for a photo. You’ll probably find that the thrill of seeing a pride of lions, for example, or a cheetah with its young is somewhat curtailed by dozens of vehicles all jockeying for the best position.My advice is to talk to your driver/guide before entry into the reserve and make sure they are aware that you want no part of this behavior. That is the best way to experience the magnificent wildlife of this very special place, just cruising quietly through the grassy savannah – and who knows what you’ll come across and have all to yourself instead.
East Africa at Its Best
Nowhere else sums up the East African dream like the Masai Mara. Always the best place in Kenya to see huge herds of grazers and a seemingly endless procession of carnivores big and small, the Masai Mara is the one place in East Africa I could return to again and again and never get jaded or bored. Fantastic at any time, visiting the Mara during the annual wildebeest migration (roughly July to October), though, is to witness one of the undisputed wildlife wonders of the world.
Of course there are some downsides. The Mara is the one protected area in Kenya that everyone wants to visit and the easiest way to find a lion is often to look for a group of minibuses. The park has a long history of mismanagement (it’s a national reserve rather than a national park, which means it’s governed by the local council rather than the national government) and has long been in serious danger of being overdeveloped (some would say this has already happened) with few enforced rules on lodge
But, even with these negatives there is simply no other Kenyan park that comes close to matching the Mara and if the reserve itself weren’t good enough on its own then in the last few years things have got even better with the establishment of a number of private and community conservancies bordering the reserve. Visiting these conservancies can be very expensive (you have to be a guest of one of the very upmarket lodges to enter conservancy lands), but if you can afford it then these are the ultimate in safari indulgences. Each conservancy will have only a handful of other guests at any one time (several times I have been the only tourist present in a conservancy!), meaning there’s none of the minibus circus common in the reserve itself. The animal populations in the conservancies are phenomenal and increasing, as more and more animals leave the reserve itself and head to the peace and quiet of the conservancies. Best of all, by and large most local Maasai, who feel they are finally gaining from the presence of wildlife and tourists on ‘their’ land, are fully supportive of the conservancies.
The conservancies have other advantages as well over the reserve itself. Walking safaris and fly-camping are allowed in all of them as is, in most cases, a certain amount of respectful off-road driving, and vehicle numbers around any given sighting are strictly limited. All up these conservancies might well offer the best safari experience on the continent.
At the end of the day though, whether it’s the reserve itself or one of the conservancies, there is no other place in East Africa I would rather be.
Of course there are some downsides. The Mara is the one protected area in Kenya that everyone wants to visit and the easiest way to find a lion is often to look for a group of minibuses. The park has a long history of mismanagement (it’s a national reserve rather than a national park, which means it’s governed by the local council rather than the national government) and has long been in serious danger of being overdeveloped (some would say this has already happened) with few enforced rules on lodge
Read more
development. Fortunately, in recent years, new laws and regulations have come in, the park management has been overhauled and there are growing signs that the bad old days might be behind it and, I desperately hope, a bright, wildebeest-filled future awaits!But, even with these negatives there is simply no other Kenyan park that comes close to matching the Mara and if the reserve itself weren’t good enough on its own then in the last few years things have got even better with the establishment of a number of private and community conservancies bordering the reserve. Visiting these conservancies can be very expensive (you have to be a guest of one of the very upmarket lodges to enter conservancy lands), but if you can afford it then these are the ultimate in safari indulgences. Each conservancy will have only a handful of other guests at any one time (several times I have been the only tourist present in a conservancy!), meaning there’s none of the minibus circus common in the reserve itself. The animal populations in the conservancies are phenomenal and increasing, as more and more animals leave the reserve itself and head to the peace and quiet of the conservancies. Best of all, by and large most local Maasai, who feel they are finally gaining from the presence of wildlife and tourists on ‘their’ land, are fully supportive of the conservancies.
The conservancies have other advantages as well over the reserve itself. Walking safaris and fly-camping are allowed in all of them as is, in most cases, a certain amount of respectful off-road driving, and vehicle numbers around any given sighting are strictly limited. All up these conservancies might well offer the best safari experience on the continent.
At the end of the day though, whether it’s the reserve itself or one of the conservancies, there is no other place in East Africa I would rather be.
Big Cat Heaven
No wonder Disney chose to film ‘African Cats’ in the Mara. This is Kenya’s finest big game reserve, 5,000ft above sea level and home to all kinds of animals, from 6-tonne elephants to tiny dik-diks. Cheetahs patrol its open grasslands and leopards haunt the shady forests beside the Mara and Talek Rivers. But for me this will always be the land of the lion. I’ve been coming here since 1974 and the magic never fails. From the Siria escarpment to the Ngama Hills you’ll find a score of prides, including the descendants of the Marsh Pride of ‘Big Cat Diary’ fame, which still live in the vicinity of Musiara Marsh. This is also usually the first part of the Mara to welcome the arrival of the Serengeti wildebeest migration – the greatest wildlife show on earth. July through October is the time to see it. Particularly beautiful is the Mara Triangle with its Balanites woodlands and flat-topped inselbergs looking down into the Serengeti. A balloon safari from Little Governors’ Camp
Read more
will show you the best of it. The only downside to the Mara is its popularity. With so many camps and so many vehicles, the tipping point is not far off. So my advice is to stay in the private wildlife conservancies in the migration dispersal area outside the reserve, where tourist numbers are strictly limited.Safari Central
This famous park – a northern extension of Tanzania’s Serengeti – is responsible for perhaps more images of African animals than any other. And with good reason: it is chock-full of wildlife, and blessed with open terrain that makes game viewing easy. From July or August to October the park plays host to the northern leg of the famous Serengeti wildebeest migration (not forgetting the countless zebra and other herbivores that accompany them), which many consider to be the world’s greatest wildlife spectacle. There are also few better places in Africa to seek out all three big cat species in a single day. The downside of this popularity, argue purists, is high tourist numbers – and this is certainly Kenya’s number one destination for package safaris. But don’t let that deter you – especially if you are a safari first-timer. Certainly I saw a lot of minibuses crossing the plains during my one visit, but I also saw wall-to-wall herds, watched both lion and cheetah hunting,
Read more
and enjoyed the unexpected bonus of a rare black rhino and calf. You can escape the hordes at more exclusive camps situated in the westerly Mara Triangle or on various private concessions that lie outside the reserve’s northern boundary. Activities such as night drives and walking safaris are also available in these concessions. One warning: Mara River crossings do not happen with the punctuality that some TV documentaries might suggest, so count yourself lucky if you’re in the right place at the right time. Birders can expect rich pickings, especially in the riverine forest patches.Cheap, Cheerful and Ideal for First-Timers
Plenty of travel writers and tour operators can be a bit snobby about the Masai Mara. It’s East Africa’s most popular and best-known park, with easy access from Nairobi and a plethora of cheap accommodation options. All this combines to make it sometimes seem as though the tourists here outnumber the animals. But I confess to a soft spot for the Mara – it was the first game park I ever visited, and I still remember the thrill of seeing my first lioness, spreadeagled royally in the middle of the road with a queue of safari vehicles lined up waiting for her to move on.
The Mara’s game is highly habituated to humans, which means it’s not unusual to see a hyena kill or something similarly thrilling before you’ve been there too long. If you’re short on funds you can find a group tour to the Mara out of Nairobi for a bargain price, and although the red-robed Maasai have almost become a cliché among images of East Africa, their culture is still fascinating and their
The Mara’s game is highly habituated to humans, which means it’s not unusual to see a hyena kill or something similarly thrilling before you’ve been there too long. If you’re short on funds you can find a group tour to the Mara out of Nairobi for a bargain price, and although the red-robed Maasai have almost become a cliché among images of East Africa, their culture is still fascinating and their