​Expert Reviews – Chobe NP

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Expert
Dale R Morris   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Dale is a multi-award-winning writer and photographer with more than 500 published magazine articles featured in magazines such as National Geographic, BBC Wildlife, Travel Africa, and CNN Travel.

1 person found this review helpful.

Elephants Everywhere
Overall rating
4/5

Chobe has lions, and leopards, and tons and tons of wildlife, including elephants – lots and lots of elephants.

In fact, there are too many, and conservationists are concerned that they are damaging the delicate ecosystem of the Chobe National Park by eating themselves and everything else out of house and home. But at face value, the encounters I have had with Chobe’s thousands of resident pachyderms have been a highlight of my numerous visits to this very popular park.

I particularly love the boat safari options available on the main river, which allow you to drift slowly downstream within meters of giant crocodiles, vociferous hippos, uncountable birds, and, of course, hundreds and hundreds of elephants.

There’s nothing quite like observing the shenanigans of a herd at bath time, and it’s evident that they really do love this part of their day. The calves are always splashing around like kids at the pool, the adolescents spar with each other in the shallows, and the grown-ups, even the big bulls, practically smile with pleasure as they take the weight off their legs in at the deep end. It’s a joy to behold.

Because of its close proximity to the ever-popular Victoria Falls and its relatively easy access, Chobe can become crowded with tourists at times. However, if you venture deeper into the park on a self-drive or organized safari, you’ll soon find yourself away from the human crowds. You might still get caught up in a traffic jam caused by elephants though.

Expert
Harriet Nimmo   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: February

Harriet is a zoologist with more than 20 years’ experience. She has the privilege of working with the world’s top wildlife photographers and photo-guides.

1 person found this review helpful.

Stunning River Frontage – but Can Get Very Busy with Tourist Traffic
Overall rating
4/5

The essence of this national park is its stunning setting along the Chobe River. It attracts vast numbers of elephants and watching the elephants moving in and out of the water at sunset is the quintessential Chobe experience. The river also attracts a lot of other animals and a huge variety of waterbirds. Lion, leopard and hyena are present, but don’t come here expecting to see predators.
The disadvantage of Chobe is that it can get very crowded in high season, with lots of day-trippers staying in the lodges outside the reserve and queuing up for game drives and boat trips.
Another more peaceful way to experience the Chobe is to stay on one of the houseboats that move up and down the river. I also love the specialist photographic boat trips. These boats have a very shallow draught, enabling you to get close to the waterbirds and, if you’re lucky, photogenic elephant encounters.

Expert
Ariadne van Zandbergen   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Ariadne is a renowned African wildlife photographer whose work is featured in many well-known guidebooks and magazines.

4 people found this review helpful.

The Land of Giants
Overall rating
4/5

The first time I visited Chobe, I couldn’t believe the number of elephants in the waterfront area. They were everywhere. Big herds get together to form even bigger ‘super herds’. Chobe’s nickname ‘The Land of Giants’ is spot on. Up to 120,000 elephants congregate here in the dry season. There is a thrill about being surrounded by elephants in the bush, but I really enjoy watching them in the water. They always appear to be in a hurry when approaching the river. As if they suddenly can’t wait any longer. Lined up on the shore drinking, they make a lovely picture. Invariably, some elephants will wade in deeper to bathe and youngsters love to wallow and play. A highlight for me was watching a small herd crossing the river; it was heartwarming to see how these gentle giants nudged and helped the babies when needed. Aside from elephants we saw lots of buffalo, hippos and gigantic crocodiles on a sunset boat cruise. Morning game drives proved to be best for predators; I saw two lionesses hunting and a leopard in a tree on my most recent visit.

Expert
Sue Watt   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: February

Sue is an award-winning writer who specializes in African travel and conservation. She writes for national newspapers, magazines, Rough Guides and Lonely Planet.

5 people found this review helpful.

Chobe’s charms and challenges
Overall rating
4/5

I’ve only been to Chobe once and my visit was limited to one night (the result of a very hectic itinerary) in the busiest area of the park near the Chobe River. It’s easily accessible from Vic Falls and has plenty of wildlife (particularly huge herds of elephants), so much so that you simply don’t know where to look next – but this also means that it has plenty of tourists. Boat trips are by far the best way to experience this part of the park, but the river too is busy at certain times, particularly for sunset cruises. High on my wish list are the Savuti and Linyanti areas, real wilderness regions away from the crowds. That’s not to detract from the beauty of the popular river area – but just be aware that there’s little bush solitude here… I would highly recommend staying for longer and exploring Chobe to its full potential.

Expert
Tim Bewer   –  
United States US
Visited: July

Tim is a travel writer who has covered 10 African countries for Lonely Planet's Africa, East Africa and West Africa guidebooks.

22 people found this review helpful.

Huge concentrations of large animals, all easily spotted along the Chobe River
Overall rating
4/5

Its location near the incomparable and unmissable Victoria Falls (about an hour away) has made Chobe one of the busiest and most famous parks in Southern Africa, but it’s the abundant wildlife and ease of seeing it (in both the rainy and dry seasons) that makes it one of the best. Except for rhino, you have a good chance of encountering all of Africa’s most-sought-after species, and the elephant density is amongst the highest in Africa. It’s also a good place to see some of the less common but most beautiful antelope such as sable and eland. Most visitors hit the Serondela area, near the town of Kasane, where the typical trip combines a beautiful boat ride on the park’s namesake river and a game drive.

This isn’t the first park where I’ve done a boat safari, but it was by far the best, with the highlight being the baby elephants swimming. You can even choose to sleep on a houseboat. I bush camped which is one way to beat the Serondela crowds since there won’t be many other vehicles around during the late afternoon and early morning portions of your game drives. Another way to escape the masses is to visit the Savuti and Linyanti Marsh areas, which have water sources in the dry season and host many predators.

Expert
Stephen Cunliffe   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Stephen is a travel writer and avid conservationist whose work appears in prestigious magazines such as Africa Geographic and Travel Africa.

4 people found this review helpful.

Place of Elephants
Overall rating
4/5

If you love elephants, then you will love Chobe. During the dry season, safari goers are treated to endless processions of these grey behemoths drinking, swimming and frolicking in the perennial river. With thousands of elephants involved, this entertaining spectacle is best appreciated from the water and I strongly recommend taking a boat cruise along the Chobe River while you’re there.

Elephants are unquestionably the main attraction, but the hippos, crocs and birding are also spectacular. The park is home to the full array of predators and lion prides in Chobe have adapted their hunting techniques to target both buffalo and elephants! These kills can be harsh to watch, but it’s a great privilege to witness Africa at her most primordial.

If I were to single out one dislike, it would be that parts of Chobe – especially in the east along the river– have become very commercial and crowded. But, so long as you steer clear of these visitor bottlenecks, a highly rewarding safari experience awaits in Chobe.

Expert
Paul Murray   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: June

Paul is a travel writer, author of the Bradt guidebook to Zimbabwe and is closely involved in promoting tourism to Zimbabwe.

29 people found this review helpful.

Wall to Wall Animals
Overall rating
4/5

Chobe is justifiably rated as one of the premier game-viewing parks in Africa. Although the rhinos have been relocated to safer areas, everything else is here in abundance making it an ideal destination for the first time safari goer. I can’t list everything here, but the herds of elephant and giraffe are exceptional and on my last drive into the park we were treated to lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog all in the space of about 30 minutes.

My favourite wildlife experience of all time was finding ourselves between two fine male lions about 50 metres apart who promptly set up a phenomenally loud roaring ‘contest’ for about 5 minutes. Hairs on the back of my neck as I write this! Everything comes at a price though. This superb game viewing means it gets very busy and you’ll often find six or more vehicles jostling for the best position around a very bored looking lion. The big lodges and touring groups all have their set routines so pick an independent operator who’ll find you the lion when the other guests have all returned for their breakfasts. Try to fit in Savuti Marshes too.

Expert
Mike Unwin   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: April and October

Mike is an award-winning wildlife writer, former editor of Travel Zambia magazine and author of the Bradt Guide to Southern African Wildlife.

45 people found this review helpful.

Elephant central
Overall rating
4/5

Your experience of Chobe will depend on which part of the park you visit. The waterfront area in the north, which is within a day trip of Victoria Falls, offers game viewing for the masses, with boats cruising up and down the Chobe River from many large lodges along the bank, and a busy network of roads. The game can be prolific – I have never seen more elephants anywhere, and listening at night to more than 2,000 buffalo rumbling past our campsite remains one of my most awe-inspiring safari moments. But peak-season crowds can be comparable to those of the Kruger and Masai Mara. The park’s hinterland, however, is a true wilderness – and those who can make it to Ngwezumba Pan and other scattered pans among the dense mopane woodland may find themselves alone. The sandy terrain makes for arduous travel – and the Maun to Kasane drive across the park is notorious for vehicle strandings. However, it is worth the effort for a visit to Savuti, an area in the southwest that is famed for its large lion prides and, during the rains, its impressive zebra migration. Game here can be seriously in-your-face and camping is not for those of nervous dispositions. Birdlife is excellent throughout Chobe, especially along the waterfront, and you have a fair chance of sable, wild dog and cheetah.

Expert
Lizzie Williams   –  
South Africa ZA
Visited: Multiple times

Lizzie is a reputed guidebook writer and author of the Footprint guides to South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe.

14 people found this review helpful.

Exceptionally good game-viewing on the lush Chobe riverfront
Overall rating
4/5

Chobe is divided into several distinctly different eco-systems where safari options vary. My experience of Chobe is a day or overnight safari to the lush plains and dense forests along the Chobe River in the northeast, and is a safari operators’ favourite that’s often teamed with a visit to Victoria Falls just over the border. The normal drill is a morning game drive, followed by lunch at a riverside lodge and an afternoon river cruise. Game drives are always rewarding; giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, buffalo, numerous antelope, and accompanying predators include lion, hyena and wild dog. But the highlight for me is the cruise; a gentle float to observe Chobe’s always-busy riverfront as the animals drink, and is rightfully best known for seeing impressively large herds of elephant. A popular short safari, but the other regions (definitely Savuti) beckon to experience Chobe well-off the beaten track.

Expert
Gemma Pitcher   –  
Australia AU
Visited: May

Gemma authored several Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guides to Africa, Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa.

7 people found this review helpful.

Elephant snorkellers
Overall rating
4/5

Chobe lies at the confluence of four of Africa’s most popular wildlife destinations – Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. As such it’s a very popular park and can get crowded in high season. But what it lacks in wilderness vibe, it makes up in sheer density of game, particularly elephants (here in huge numbers from June to December), which are highly habituated to humans and entirely unbothered by the safari vehicles and boats that surround them. The focus of the park is the Chobe river, and a sunset or sunrise boat ride is a must. Boats, being quieter than cars, drift tantalizingly close to the wildlife on the banks, and the lower angle of a boat makes for amazing pictures.

Game consists of a fantastic variety of wading birds (I’m not a bird expert, but those who are rave about Chobe’s 450 species), aquatic antelope (red lechwe are abundant here) and, of course, elephants. My boat driver and I convulsed with laughter as a herd of juvenile bulls dueled on the riverbank with some cheeky baboons, who retaliated to mock charges with a volley of dung-throwing. If you’re lucky (I was), a ele or two will take to the water near your boat, their heads streaming water and gleaming blackly in the sun as, trunks raised like snorkels, they make their way from one side of the river to the other.

Expert
Brian Jackman   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: Multiple times

Brian is an award winning travel writer, author of safari books and regular contributor to magazines such as BBC Wildlife and Travel Africa.

12 people found this review helpful.

Kingdom of the Elephants
Overall rating
4/5

If you want to see elephants Chobe is the place. Stretching south from the Chobe River all the way down to the Moremi Game Reserve, this huge park is home to the biggest elephant herds on the planet. In all, some 120,000 elephants find refuge here together with large herds of buffalo and all the big cats. In the wet season the elephants disperse across the park’s wooded hinterland. But as the dry season takes hold they congregate in unbelievable numbers along the Chobe River, emerging from the bush to drink and bathe towards sundown. Although this is the busiest corner of the park it is well worth visiting, but I much prefer the area around Savuti, where Chobe blends seamlessly with the Linyanti Swamps.

Savuti Marsh, an immense sea of grass encircled by distant walls of camelthorn acacias, attract tsessebe, zebra and other plains game, making this a happy hunting ground for cheetahs and lions, while the nearby hills hold the promise of leopards. An additional dry season spectacle is Pump Pan, a natural theatre-in-the-round where water from a borehole guarantees daily visits by elephant bulls and thirsty flocks of doves and sandgrouse. It is also renowned as the home of a lion pride whose members have become notorious for preying on the young elephants that accompany the breeding herds when they come in to drink at night.

Expert
Alan Murphy   –  
Australia AU
Visited: June

Alan is a travel writer and author of over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks, including the guides to Southern Africa and Zambia & Malawi.

13 people found this review helpful.

The Chobe Riverfront
Overall rating
4/5

The Chobe riverfront is the premium wildlife-watching area of Chobe National Park and is accessible from the north of the country. It defines the border with Namibia and is only a short drive from Zambia. You won't be the only tourists in here but the loop roads off the main gravel track, along the riverfront, will get you away from the tour groups.

It was the first park I visited in Africa after an absence. As I headed down to the river, a European roller bolted across the front of the car and a herd of impala grazed peacefully by the roadside, not long after I saw giraffe, zebra, plenty more antelope and a lone male lion. The highlight though was the elephant herds - they're huge and the best way to see them is to go down the river by boat. Guides will pull into shore when they see a herd drinking or bathing and you stop only metres away, close enough to touch...almost. It's a truly awe-inspiring and slightly terrifying experience.

Expert
Kim Wildman   –  
Australia AU
Visited: September

Kim is a travel writer who authored and updated over 15 guidebooks, including Lonely Planet's South Africa and Bradt's Tanzania guides.

9 people found this review helpful.

Elephants and even more elephants!
Overall rating
5/5

Elephantophiles take note. If you want to get up close and personal with the lumbering giants of the African veld, then there is no better place on Earth than Chobe National Park. With an estimated 120,000 elephants roaming its bounds – which is the highest concentration of elephants on the African continent – even on the briefest of game drives you’ll be guaranteed several sightings. One herd we spied stretched further than the eye could see. But there’s much more to Chobe than elephant. The third largest reserve in Botswana, it’s also home to lion, leopard, hippo, buffalo, wild dog, hyena and antelope. If you have the time, be sure to take a sunset cruise on the Chobe River. The stretch of river between Kasane and the Serondela campsite literally heaves with wildlife. And, of course, there’s no better way to end your safari than with an icy G&T in your hand watching the masses of hippos, elephants and crocodiles as the sun slowly sinks below the horizon. Pure bliss!

Expert
Christopher Clark   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: Multiple times

Christopher is a British travel writer and has contributed to various Fodor's guidebooks and a range of travel magazines.

5 people found this review helpful.

Land of the giants
Overall rating
5/5

Close to the Zimbabwean, Zambian and Namibian borders and an easy day trip away from the unmissable Victoria Falls, Chobe is Botswana’s flagship park and not without good cause. The wide and life-giving Chobe River draws incredible numbers of hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, waterbuck and a plethora of interesting bird species including the iconic African fish eagle and rare African skimmer.

But the biggest attraction here is undoubtedly the unparalleled elephant population. I’ve witnessed single herds at least 200 strong and these beautiful giants can often be seen swimming across the river. A sunset boat cruise is a special way to enjoy Chobe’s elephants and its natural beauty, but for great pics and less boat traffic I prefer to be out on the river in the morning. I’ve also had the pleasure of staying a couple of nights on a houseboat on the river; it was a special treat watching great herds of game come to drink as I ate a delectable brunch on board.

Game driving through the park can be a busy affair and I generally prefer to spend most of my time on the river. Though big predators like lion, leopard and wild dog are often said to be more frequently sighted further into the park, I saw my first successful lion hunt from the river on my first visit, and on my most recent visit I also saw lions trying (and ultimately failing) to take down a fully-grown elephant right by the river bank.

Expert
James Bainbridge   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: September

James is a travel writer and author of many Lonely Planet guides, including senior author of the guide to South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland.

9 people found this review helpful.

Green plains covered with wildlife
Overall rating
5/5

For even the oldest safari hands, arriving at the Chobe riverfront is a 'wow' moment. Herds of elephant cross the placid waters, giraffes munch riverside trees and, stretching out towards the horizon and the Namibian border, zebras, warthogs and antelopes scatter the flood plains. Making the scene supremely photogenic, a mokoro (dugout canoe) edges along as the sun sets and the river turns to liquid gold. This sight instantly refreshed my bloodshot eyes at the end of a long, bumpy drive through the Botswanan bush.

After the Serengeti, Chobe is perhaps the best place in Africa for seeing wildlife in an open savanna setting. It also has an incredible 70,000 elephants, one of Africa's most concentrated populations. I certainly had some of my most memorable elephant sightings here, from up-close encounters to views of herds kicking up dust on the plains. The Chobe riverfront has the highest concentration of animals; there seemed to be a lion or leopard dozing under every other bush. However, its accessibility and proximity to Kasane mean it gets busy, so it's worth exploring quieter, 4WD-only areas of the park.

Expert
Emma Gregg   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: Multiple times

Emma is an award-winning travel writer for Rough Guides, National Geographic Traveller, Travel Africa magazine and The Independent.

19 people found this review helpful.

Crowds of elephants and zebras, a short hop from Victoria Falls
Overall rating
5/5

I consider Chobe one of the very best safari destinations, not just in Botswana, but in the entire continent. Whatever the season, a game drive or a leisurely boat trip in this large and fascinatingly diverse park count among Africa’s classic safari experiences.

Chobe is fantastic for elephants. Estimates of the size of the population vary – some hedge their bets by saying it’s over 50,000, while others suggest it’s over 120,000. I’ve often seen huge herds, up to 400 strong, in the mopane woodlands and lush swamps beside the Linyanti River and Chobe River, which marks the park’s northern boundary. Inevitably, there’s also much evidence of their destructiveness in well-trampled pathways and mangled trees. Lions are also plentiful, particularly near the waterholes, some of which have pumps to keep them replenished.
Thanks to unusually high rainfall in recent years, the region around the Savuti Channel in the west has become a superb place to see birds, buffalo, leopards and streams of zebras. The marshlands of the Linyanti region in the northwest are even soggier; after the summer rains, rare antelopes such as red lechwe and sitatunga can be seen here.

Expert
Anthony Ham   –  
Australia AU
Visited: Multiple times

Anthony is a photographer and writer for travel magazines and Lonely Planet, including the guides to Kenya and Botswana & Namibia.

12 people found this review helpful.

Chobe: Elephant Kingdoms
Overall rating
5/5

Chobe is one of the best places in Africa to see wildlife with high concentrations year-round, but especially so from April to October when the animals gravitate towards the riverfrontit’s especially good for lion, leopard and elephant. Chobe has more elephants than anywhere else on the continent. The most accessible (and hence most crowded) area is Chobe Riverfront, with vast herds, as well as lion, leopard and buffalo. A river safari is especially good for birdwatching. The Linyanti Marshes are more remote, and one of the last redoubts of the African wild dog; elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo are all possible. Savuti is more remote but boasts a stunning combination of open plains, riverine woodland and large rock monoliths that are known leopard haunts. At Gobabis Hill, one such monolith, has San rock paintings and an ancient baobab, and here I spent a morning alone with a pride of seven lions before the other vehicles arrived. And when I was last in the Savuti Marshes, I got up close and personal with a pride of 16 lions.

Expert
Mark Eveleigh   –  
United Kingdom UK
Visited: February

Mark is a travel writer who grew up in Africa and has written over 700 titles for Condé Nast Traveller, Travel Africa, BBC Wildlife and others.

11 people found this review helpful.

Spectacular landscapes, wonderful wildlife sightings and the 'gnarliest' elephants in Africa
Overall rating
5/5

We had been almost a month on a self-drive safari in Botswana and had had stunning wildlife sightings. The country had - once again - surpassed all expectations but we had one last aim. To see wild dogs would be the icing on the cake and we hoped that Chobe would deliver. Chobe is certainly one of the best elephant territories you will ever find - in fact the area suffers fairly heavily from vegetation damage caused by the great herds. Perhaps because of dense population the elephants can be more aggressive than elsewhere. The two Defenders in our convoy were seriously charged on two occasions (nerve-wracking but painless and without damage) and had half a dozen mock-attacks. In our last hour in the park we were following guide Bart Vanderpitte in the lead vehicle when suddenly he started shouting over the radio: "Dogs! Dogs! Dogs!" We watched a pack of about 8 wild dogs close in and kill an impala buck.
Take my word for it: Chobe delivers!

Average Expert Rating

  • 4.3/5
  • Wildlife
  • Scenery
  • Bush Vibe
  • Birding

Rating Breakdown

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  • 4 star 12
  • 3 star 0
  • 2 star 0
  • 1 star 0
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