Expert Reviews – Zimbabwe
Stephen is a travel writer and avid conservationist whose work appears in prestigious magazines such as Africa Geographic and Travel Africa.
11 people found this review helpful.
Rising from the Ashes
Zimbabwe remains Africa’s great tragedy. Historically, it was an obvious choice as a safari destination and tourists flocked to this magnificent land. But no longer the breadbasket of Africa, it has regressed to become a poverty-stricken nation with decrepit infrastructure, under-resourced wildlife parks and few remaining quality safari operators. Robert Mugabe has systematically run his country into the ground and today only the most adventurous safari goers brave a safari to explore the neglected protected areas of Zimbabwe.
Don’t get me wrong, Zim is an attractive country with friendly people and blessed with a rich natural heritage and prolific wildlife. From the huge elephant gatherings in Hwange to the big lion prides and buffalo herds of the Matusadona, Zimbabwe has it all. Unfortunately, Zim is also a country stuck in reverse. ‘Crazy Bob’ has done his utmost to destroy this beautiful land and, in the process, he has brought the local safari industry to its knees. With tourist numbers reduced to a trickle, many safari camps have fallen into disrepair or been forced to close. The parks themselves have also suffered from a lack of funding with a deterioration in the roads, many borehole pumps no longer functioning, and a general deterioration in quality of the safari experience.
For those intrepid visitors who do brave the dilapidated infrastructure and challenges of travelling around a bankrupt, third-world African nation, there is the potential reward of rediscovering iconic wildlife areas with only highly knowledgeable safari guides and wild animals for company. I believe that the guides are one of the strongest reasons for safariing in Zim, as it is my experience that they are amongst the best on the continent and considerably enhance your interpretive nature experience.
Mark is a travel writer who grew up in Africa and has written over 700 titles for CNN Traveller, Travel Africa, BBC Wildlife and others.
10 people found this review helpful.
Once (and soon to be again) Africa’s most beautiful country
When I first visited the country in 2000 I was coming to the end of a 5-country safari from Kenya, and Zimbabwe had struck me as the most beautiful African country I had ever seen. The people (most of them anyway) are remarkably friendly and wherever you are you meet with the Zimbabwean smile. I have travelled several times in Zimbabwe (sometimes on safari and sometimes on less relaxing assignments – as in 2002 when I was covering the farm occupations and was forced to leave the country in something of a hurry). The landscapes (with those postcard-perfect rock kopjes) is unforgettable and – back when I first travelled there – the wildlife was amazing. In 2008 I travelled through much of the country, seeing some areas that had suffered almost complete devastation since I first visited. The wildlife is still clinging on though in many places and a great many good people (of all races) are dedicating themselves to building towards a new future for Zimbabwe safaris. I believe that it is time for people with a genuine love for the African wilderness ought to support them by returning. One day, in the not too distant future, Zimbabwe will once again be well known as Africa’s most beautiful country.
Paul is a travel writer, author of the Bradt guidebook to Zimbabwe and is closely involved in promoting tourism to Zimbabwe.
9 people found this review helpful.
A Brilliant Past and an Outstanding Future
Yes, the country is still beset with political and economic difficulties but none of this affects visitors who book their stay with travel agencies and prepay most of the trip. Independent travellers will however find life rather more difficult given the chronic shortage of cash in the country. Despite all this, Zimbabwe remains many people’s favourite country in the region with great wildlife viewing, wonderfully friendly and welcoming people, fascinating cultures and stunningly photogenic scenery and geological features. But the fact that Zimbabwe is still ‘out of bounds’ for many visitors means that today, with a couple of exceptions, you have the national parks almost to yourself.
Zimbabwe has a number of national parks and each is excellent in its own way, although not all of them offer the ‘full-on’ game viewing opportunities that many people are looking for on their first safari. True, as with all its regional neighbours, poaching and illegal hunting has become a problem in some parks, but in others, the impact is hardly noticeable with rich and diverse concentrations of wildlife. The Big Five are still present in some of Zim’s parks, and if you take the critically endangered rhino out of the equation, the remaining ‘four’ obligingly present themselves with a good deal of regularity. Other parks with fewer animals on show will blow your mind away in scenic terms. Two of them, Gonarezhou and Chizarira offer you an unparalleled wilderness experience such that you can spend a week in them and expect to see no other tourists, while some other national parks simply offer marvellous relaxation breaks. Humans have had no noticeable impact on the magnificent birdlife in all the parks and this attracts serious birders to Zimbabwe in their droves.
So my recommendations for the safari visitor are various. If this is your first trip and you want to ‘tick off’ all the major animals on your checklist, be sure to start with Hwange National Park which has huge concentrations of game in the dry season. If you’ve been on several previous safari trips and want something different, more than just the Big Five and you especially want to get away from the crowds, Zimbabwe’s parks are for you. Either way, I would definitely recommend booking with a small or specialist safari operator and making sure you are not ‘consolidated’ into a much larger group for your game drives.
And if you don’t want to sit in a bumpy, dusty game drive vehicle for your whole holiday, but want to combine great game viewing with scenic and cultural pursuits – well, you won’t find a better all-round destination than Zimbabwe.
Finally, to optimise your game viewing opportunities you should visit in the dry season – wildlife viewing is best throughout the country from June through October.
Mike is an award winning wildlife writer, editor of Travel Zambia magazine and author of the Bradt Guide to Southern African Wildlife.
8 people found this review helpful.
In recent years Zimbabwe has made the headlines for all the wrong reasons, with its ongoing political difficulties having reduced a once thriving tourist trade to a mere trickle. This is a tragedy, as the country is a superb safari destination, with a huge variety of landscapes and wildlife. Its largest parks, such as Hwange and Mana Pools, offer a classic lowland safari experience, with large herds of game – especially elephant and buffalo – and abundant predators. A variety of smaller parks, meanwhile, are set in completely different landscapes, from the weird volcanic moonscape of the Matobo Hills to the lush montane forest of the eastern highlands, and here you will find many more unusual species – including a rich variety of birds. The Zambezi River forms the country’s northern border with Zambia, and flows through the popular tourist attractions of Victoria Falls and Lake Kariba, both excellent wildlife areas in their own right.
I admit that I have a particular affection for Zimbabwe, as I lived in the country during the late 1980s and it provided my introduction to African wildlife. At that time it was an extremely easy and good-value safari destination, with an excellent national park infrastructure developed along similar lines to South Africa’s, and – even as a low-budget, independent traveler – there was little that I didn’t see. The wildlife and parks have since suffered from the inevitable poaching and neglect that comes with hard times. But the landscape is resilient, and the last few years have seen many safari operators increasing their activities. Reports are that game populations in key areas remains healthy – although conservation is in dire need of support. The more visitors that return, the more this situation will improve.
Stuart is a travel writer and author of numerous Lonely Planet guidebooks, including Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania.
6 people found this review helpful.
The Crown Awaits
For many years I’ve been travelling around different parts of Africa experiencing safaris in many different parks and environments. Throughout all this time whenever talk has turned to safari guides, training or community conservation one word above others kept cropping up, ‘Zimbabwe’, but over the past ten to fifteen years that word has inevitably been followed by a sigh from the speaker. Zimbabwe, so everyone who knew the country said, was once in African safari royalty. It had some of the best parks, finest infrastructure and some incredible wildlife. But not just that the country had also earnt a solid reputation for its guides (particularly the walking guides) who were considered among the best trained and most professional in Africa. Zimbabwe could also be credited with giving birth to the original community conservation movement which is now making in-roads in conservation and tourism in many other parts of Africa. Sadly, though the country is today a shadow of its former self. More than a decade of misrule from Robert Mugabe has stripped the country of much of its safari credentials and left its once ground-breaking community conservation programme in tatters.
Having listened to these kind of tales for what seems like years, in late 2015, I finally got my chance to go to Zimbabwe. I really had very little idea what to expect. What I found though truly left me impressed. My experiences were confined to the far southwest – the legendary Victoria Falls (infinitely more impressive from the Zimbabwean side than the Zambian side where, thanks to a major hydro-electric project, the falls are often just a trickle of bathwater) and huge Hwange National Park. Late November, when I visited, is not considered an ideal time of year to visit southwest Zimbabwe and, thanks to an extended drought in southern Africa, November 2015 was considered even worse than normal. But the truth is I was quickly hooked on the place. Yes, okay, so the famously large elephant herds of Hwangwe were nowhere to be seen but the sense of isolation was superb. Compared to South Africa, Kenya or Tanzania there was literally nobody else here and I frequently spent entire days without seeing a single other tourist vehicle. I also found the villages I visited fascinating. The houses here had a level of love plastered onto them that I don’t think I have ever seen anywhere in eastern Africa. Made of mud they might have been, but they were covered in bright, hand painted murals of animals and landscapes and as often as not had masses of flower pots filled with pink and orange blooms outside the doorways. And again and again, as I walked past these houses I would hear a call of invitation shouted out, “Please, you’re welcome. Come in” and one thing is for sure, despite the bad news that so often comes out of Zimbabwe I certainly would travel half-way across the world to be welcomed there again. For me this was one of the most refreshingly enjoyable places I have visited in many years.
Philip is an acclaimed travel writer and author of many guidebooks, including the Bradt guides to Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya and South Africa.
5 people found this review helpful.
Adrenaline capital of southern Africa
The pivotal tourist attraction in Zimbabwe is the mile-wide Victoria Falls, an not-to-be-missed sight whose scenic magnificence has hit me afresh on each of half a dozen visits – and ensures that it regularly features alongside Kilimanjaro on those lists of the seven scenic wonders of the modern world. Vic Falls – as its known locally – is also a great centre for adrenaline junkies, with adventure activities ranging from the intimidating bungee jump from the bridge facing the mighty waterfall to white water rafting in the torrential Zambezi Gorge below the falls or canoeing on the more placid hippo-infested waters above it. As singularly impressive as Vic Falls in its own right is the ruined stone city of Great Zimbabwe, a medieval trade centre that qualifies as the most haunting African historical site south of Ethiopia.
Zimbabwe is no slouch when it comes to game viewing, either. My favourite among its national parks, Hwange, a short drive south of Vic Falls, is justifiably renowned for its immense concentrations of elephants, but it is a also good for lion, giraffe, buffalo and other safari favourites, along with the rather localised sable antelope. Nearby Matobo National Park, the burial place of Cecil John Rhodes, is famed for its balancing rocks, and is one of many sites in Zimbabwe rich in prehistoric rock art. Another perennial favourite, set in the far northeast, is Mana Pools, which lies on the lower Zambezi, and allows unguided walking in an area famed for its Big Five sightings – another must for adrenaline junkies.
The eastern highlands, meanwhile, offer some wonderfully scenic walking possibilities, ranging from serious hikes in the Chimanimani Range to some wonderful forest walks in Vumba and Chilinda. A feature of Zimbabwe at present is low tourist volumes associated with the negative international profile of the Mugabe regime, but the country’s beleaguered tourist industry deserves support, and the country offers a refreshingly untrammelled experience away from the few main tourist centres.
Lizzie is a reputed guidebook writer and author of the Footprint guides to South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Zimbabwe.
5 people found this review helpful.
A good destination to combine game-viewing, fun activities, and natural attractions.
Zimbabwe has a generous sample of the Africa many people hope to see – untamed savannah, mighty rivers, thundering waterfalls, and a good variety of African animals. The Victoria Falls are the principal attraction, where the Zambezi spills dramatically into the Bakota Gorge, and Hwange, Mana Pools and Gonarezhou are just some of the immensely rewarding parks to see big game. I particularly love the distinctively Zimbabwean landscapes; balancing boulders, giant baobab trees and ubiquitous beehive hut settlements scattered across the veld.
Probably my favourite highlight of Zimbabwe is the wonderful people, and every time I visit I’m always struck by their warmth and friendliness. Service is impeccable with well-trained staff, and Zimbabwe is renowned for its professional safari guides who have gone a long way to lifting guiding standards across Africa.
The diverse habitats are home to impressively large populations of elephant and buffalo and usually-rare species like roan antelope and wild dog. Safari options are not confined to the back of a vehicle, and there is also some excellent walking and canoeing too. The endless list of activities based around Victoria Falls includes bungee-jumping and white-water rafting, while excursions like scenic flights and river cruises offer the chance to see wildlife along the banks of the life-giving Zambezi.
Despite its well-publicized political and economic problems, Zimbabwe’s tourist industry has rarely been affected and it’s always maintained its strong reputation as an attractive safari destination. It has a good choice of hotels, lodges and camps, Zimbabwe Parks & Wildlife Authority is pro-active at protecting the wild spaces, and added advantages for visitors include the new international airport opening at Victoria Falls and being able to use US$ (now the de facto currency). Strategically too, a big advantage is the proximity of Victoria Falls and Hwange National Park in the west to attractions in Botswana, Namibia and Zambia.
Brian is an award winning travel writer, author of safari books and regular contributor to magazines such as BBC Wildlife and Travel Africa.
3 people found this review helpful.
Paradise in Crisis
ZIMBABWE really deserves top billing as a safari destination. In landscape terms it contains some of Africa’s greatest scenic splendours, from the awesome spectacle of the Victoria Falls to the bare granite domes of the Matobo Hills with their black eagles and prehistoric rock art caves; and its wildlife parks are second to none. I’m thinking of Mana Pools on the mighty Zambezi, and the classic elephant country of Hwange, whose camps and lodges are as good as you’ll find anywhere. And Zim’s professional safari guides are still the best. But sadly, these are not normal times.
The unrest caused by President Mugabe’s years of misrule has caused untold damage to the country’s tourist image and infrastructure, and as a result Zimbabwe has simply fallen off the tourist map so far as many tour operators are concerned. Yet most of the few visitors who have been recently all seem to have had a good time, encountered no problems and been warmly welcomed. In the end, the decision to go or not to go is a personal choice guided perhaps by the latest Foreign Office travel advice.
Anthony is a photographer and writer for travel magazines and Lonely Planet, including the guides to Kenya and Botswana & Namibia.
2 people found this review helpful.
Zimbabwe: The next big thing in safaris
Forget everything you’ve heard about Zimbabwe. This is one of my favorite safari destinations. Hwange National Park, in the country’s west, belongs among the elite of African safari parks. I especially love it for its elephant and lion sightings. Mana Pools National Park in the north is also a favorite, not least because it’s one of few parks in Africa where you can walk in wildlife areas without a guide. Add the history of Great Zimbabwe, the splendor of Victoria Falls and the dramatic cliffs of Gonarezhou, and there’s plenty to keep you occupied for weeks. But one of the most underrated aspects of visiting Zimbabwe is its people. Obscured for too long by political instability and the shadow of Robert Mugabe, Zimbabwe’s people could just be its greatest asset. More than anywhere else in Africa, I have found Zimbabweans to be highly educated, professional in their work, and unfailingly warm in their welcome. This is especially true of those working in the safari industry. Even if your time is limited, Hwange National Park and Victoria Falls are world-class destinations that are worth making room in your itinerary for.
Harriet is a zoologist with more than 20 years’ experience. She has the privilege of working with the world’s top wildlife photographers and photo-guides.
2 people found this review helpful.
Beautiful country, beautiful people
Ignore all the negative connotations this country may have, Zimbabwe is one of the most beautiful African countries with some of the friendliest people. The previous political troubles have not impacted on the safari destinations – other than the staff are even more delighted to see you. And with the new political beginnings, now is the time to go.
There are two key safari destinations – Hwange National Park and Mana Pools. Hwange is Zimbabwe’s largest national park and with a bit of luck you can see most big safari animals, including the rare sable antelope (though the few remining rhino are very difficult to find). There are a LOT of elephants and I’ve always been lucky with wild dogs. Mana Pools is one of Africa’s most beautiful parks, with its riverine glades of trees and the joy here is that you can walk or take a canoe trip on the Zambezi. Zimbabwe’s guides have the reputation for being among the best in Africa.
Other travel highlights in Zimbabwe include the Matopos Hills, with its dramatic rocky landscapes, rock art and, thankfully, still good populations of rhino. And of course, no trip to Zimbabwe is complete without visiting the iconic Victoria Falls. Personally, I prefer visiting the Falls from the Zimbabwe side rather than the Zambian side, as the town is more attractive and there is more to see and do.
Zimbabwe is a birder’s delight with more than 600 species, with many of the specials found in the Eastern Highlands. Wish List ticks include the African pitta, racket-tailed roller, Ayer’s hawk eagle and pennant winged nightjar.
The best time for wildlife viewing is the dry winter months (May-October), when the game clusters around the water holes. However, the wet season can be great value and is the best time for migratory birds.
Heather is a British travel / conservation journalist, and has written for publications and broadcasters such as the BBC, Departures, the Telegraph and the Sunday Times.
The insider favourite
If ever there was an underappreciated destination, it’s Zimbabwe – something every safari expert will tell you.
The country continues to experience tough times. The 2018 election promised a new chapter – but resulted in a slide backwards. The economy is in the bin and the country needs tourism.
Despite its problems, Zimbabwe is a safe country for tourists and there’s an incredible safari offering waiting for those open-minded enough to visit. Zimbabwean guides are, I think, the best in Africa; the country also has one of the continent’s best standards of education, which is immediately apparent. High-end camps are far better value than in neighbouring Botswana and South Africa. Make sure you pay for as much as possible in advance and note that there’s little cash access on the ground.
These days, most safaris start in Victoria Falls, with its new international airport (Kenya Airways flies between Cape Town and Nairobi, with a stop in Vic Falls, which is convenient for those on a multi-destination trip). There’s so much to do here: bungy jumping, white-water rafting, sundowner cruises and walking safaris, to name a few.
From there, Hwange National Park is a great option, as you can drive within three hours. There you’ll find lions, leopards, cheetahs and humongous herds of elephants, especially during the dry months of September and October. You can self-drive and camp or stay in the one of the long-established high-end camps. I’ve visited Hwange three times to date and often recommend it to friends travelling to Southern Africa for the first time.
Further afield, Mana Pools, on the banks of the Zambezi, still feels really wild – and it’s a great place for walking safaris (you can even walk unguided). Lake Kariba is a holiday favourite of many Zimbabweans; stay on a houseboat or a lakeside lodge. Then there are lesser-visited places, such as Matusadona National Park (managed by the non-profit African Parks) and Gonarezhou National Park in the south – ones for those who like to veer off the beaten track.